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wings removed for first annual whats the trick for refitting

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graeme bird

Joined: 15 Jul 2010
Posts: 434

Posted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 11:25 am Post subject: wings removed for first annual whats the trick for refitting

So, just passed the LAA inspection after the first year. No swollen fuel tank thankfully. Struggled to get one of the tailplanes off, removed the wings but seem to have forgotten the knack for getting them re-installed. Any tips?

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Graeme Bird
kit4 (Wagstaff) TBD
Kit3 G-CLXU (Gregory) mono 914 xs Woodcomp
Kit2 G-PATS - (kesterton) Mono Classic 912 warpdrive
Kit 1 G-UMPY - Mono Classic/XS 912S, Woodcomp G(@)gdbmk.co.uk

JonSmith

Joined: 21 May 2010
Posts: 110

Posted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 3:15 pm Post subject: Re: wings removed for first annual whats the trick for refit

Hi, I'm sure everyone has their own method but I rig from my open trailer every time I fly and this seems to work for me:



Always put the port wing on first.  Slide it right home ensuring the front and rear wing pins enter their respective fuselage sockets and the flap pin locates in the flap cross tube end bearing.  Then insert both main pins through the seat back far enough to hold the port wing located in the correct position height wise (but not too far so that they interfere with the starboard wing when you put it in!).  Keep the wing supported though - see below.



Now slide the starboard wing into place, fully home (remember the flap tube again!) and push the main pins fully into position.  Fit both rear socket pip pins and jobs done!



Notes:

I always support the weight of each wing until both wings are in position AND the main spar pins are fully inserted.  I think that not doing so would ask too much of the spar rigging cup sockets which are only location guides and not structural.  I use a well padded plastic saw horse trestle from B&Q under the port wing; about half way down the wing seems to put it at the right height to support it whilst I rig the stbd wing.  I always rig on my own and have a rotating trolley to transport and rotate each wing in turn.



Don't forget any pitot/ static and/ or electrical connections that you may have in the wing roots.



I find keeping all the pins well greased makes a world of difference for easy insertion.  (Isn't that always the case....?!)



Putting the main pins in part way to aid the port wing's correct location prior to fitting the stbd wing also seems to make the whole job much easier.  To get the pins fully home then just might require slight adjustment to the height of the stbd tip as the port one must already be correct.



If it doesn't seem to go well take several steps back from the aircraft and eye the whole thing up.  Does it look right?  Are both wings at the correct height?  Obviously if one or both are not in the right position the pins will never go in!  Also are the wing tips exactly correct fore and aft?  Look at the gaps between the wing root fairings and the fuselage.  Do they look exactly right (small gaps and parallel).



If your plane is nice and tight you may need some effort to ensure both wings really are fully home.  I sometimes have to "bump" my wingtips inwards with my hands to ensure this.  Again Look at the gaps between the root fairing and the fuselage.



Make sure the button on the port main pin pip pin pops right out into it's correct position otherwise it will not be locked and would creep out.  Also that the two small pip pins are fully home with their balls out!  



Finally check again both flaps have definitely located - pins into the tube - it is possible to miss!



Re. the tail planes - I think if you leave it rigged it would be sensible to remove them and re-grease them quite often - every month maybe??  I've heard that given time the slightest bit of corrosion can make them pigs to remove.  Stitch in time....  This one doesn't apply to me as I rig every time.



Cheers!

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G-TERN
Classic Mono

ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk
Guest

Posted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 11:15 pm Post subject: wings removed for first annual whats the trick for refitting

Hi! Jon and original enquirer......re:- wing rigging.

Further to Jon's submission I would add that the main problem is the

vertical positioning of the wing tip to the port wing to so align it's spa

with the starboard locating socket. I have extended the upper and lower

entrance ramps by having two 6" lengths of thin angle welded to the original

entrance of the socket and also redux bonded to the seat back with the

socket.. Making a "VEE" to locate the end of the spar and so run it into the

socket. I then have a tufnol guide/slide slotted into which the spar slides

into the entrance at the port side of the aircraft. Then on entry the wing

tip is simply maintained hard aft to enter tight to the starboard seat back

until engaged with the guide extensions, this pivots the spar end into

place. Somewhere in the age old photo gallery is pictures of the welded

ramps but I hope this description helps you. (Not forgetting to connect

"pito" pipes etc.)

Having engaged the port wing this it's rear lift lock pin is inserted since

you don't want to poke it all back out when engaging the starboard wing

!(Been there done that !)

Then similarly the starboard spa is guided by another tufnol slide and slot

and vertical alignment is provided once the spa tip has engaged with the

"cuff" which is pre-bonded round the port spar. Finally ensure all pins are

properly engaged.

Hope this helps .....my trike never flys without being re-rigged and

de-rigged on completion. 

A small addition of these items once, saves much future frustration and

re-fixing of the starboard seat back spa socket after it has been knocked

off!(been there done that !)

Regards

Bob Harrison G-PTAG



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graeme bird

Joined: 15 Jul 2010
Posts: 434

Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 9:06 am Post subject: Re: wings removed for first annual whats the trick for refit

Thanks for the responses . I don't have an open trailer so its on the ground. I found the problem this afternoon, it was the top hat washer on the end of the spar catching on the steel guide. Filed the entry edge and greased it slightly to smooth the entry and it went together ok.

I had fitted marks for alignment during the build.

Now at about 50hrs. Must try and fly the pants off it this year. 

Regards Graeme

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