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Fusalage fuel stains and gauges

 
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budyerly(at)msn.com
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 7:06 pm    Post subject: Fusalage fuel stains and gauges Reply with quote

<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]--> Roland, Max and Alan.
I have a love hate relationship with fuel gauges also. I have revisited the Priceton fuel probe (the 5S with 5 set points).
It is the same old capacitance probe, just better electrics.

Pro's:
Small hole 1/2 inch in the top of the tank with a good grommet to seal the probe in without fear of popping out and leaking. I still put a cover over the sender to make sure it can't pop out (because I have seen it on annuals).

Pretty reliable, mine is 5 years old and OK.

Quite accurate if the fuel type (mogas or aviation 100LL) is kept consistent.
With five set points I set my gauge as follows:
E=0 or reserve fuel only as the gauge is on the pilot side.
1/4 = 2.5 gallons (basically filled to the hump).
1/2 = 5.0 gallons (that is the height of most tanks just at the level of the top of the arm rest (wheel well to the bulkhead point)
3/4 = 10 gallons (about the height at the break of the tank)
F= 15 plus reserve so basically full with the old 18 gallon tank. The new tank is nearly 20.

These points are pretty linear between each set point so it cuts down on the mental gymnastics. I use a Westach gauge, but have done it with the Dynon and the gauges are reliable. I am impressed with the consistency over time.

Cons:
As you know, if you change gas, all your settings change. What a pain.
Takes a while to set the points.
Did I mention it was a pain if you change gas.
Not all EFIS or EIS systems read capacitance probes.

The Europa float works quite well in the planes I installed it in. It is just a dumb cork float and resistance pot.
If you are willing to experiment, there is a cute fuel bobber used in marine tanks with a spiral cork attached to a gauge. It reads on a 90 degree angle. Stupid simple, works with any fuel, but is behind you. They do make an electronic pickup. Problem is it has a large style 5 hole flange, which I hate. Mainly because the only thing to seal them with for trouble free operation is messy pro seal...

Like many, I have a JPI fuel flow sender, which is dead accurate, provided you give it the proper starting amount. Once set, on landing, note the fuel installed and add that to the amount left and it is pretty darned good on my 914.

I found out reading the new Rotax install manual that they have made a minor change to their fuel flow setups. Rotax had put in a drawing to place the fuel return orifice to be placed prior to the fuel sender. It will still regulate the pressure as it is supposed to and the 912S/ULS will have a dead accurate fuel flow reading. I haven't changed the two 912S aircraft in service in the shop, but am tempted. It is a lot of plumbing though. However, in August 2012 Rotax changed their Install manual and removed it because of their new fuel rail with built in return and orifice. Anyway, it is quite interesting.

I have the drawing in an old manual. The problem is the orifice needs to be downstream of the mechanical pump, and the fuel flow sender is not made to take heat/fire in the engine compartment (manufacturer of the senders recommends and FAA frowns on senders in the engine compartment). One would have to take the line from the mechanical pump put in a tee with an orifice and return line back to the tank. From that tee the line continues to the fuel flow sender, then back to the carbs. The requirements of the fuel system is still met as the orifice drops the fuel pressure from the pumps just a bit to 5.8 max to keep the float needle operating properly...

Regards,
Bud Yerly
914, sight gauge that works, capacitance fuel gauge, JPI totalizer and of course a wrist watch, tach, MP and fuel charts.... Talk about department of redundant redundancy.

[quote] ---


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max8992



Joined: 28 Jul 2011
Posts: 142

PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 6:32 am    Post subject: Fusalage fuel stains and gauges Reply with quote

Bud,

Some transceivers (FT-60, Vortex, …) are said to be operational in the engine compartment. Then it’s easy to put it between the tee (the other side of the tee being the return line) and the carbs. That’s what I will install next as one has done already in few ships.
Back to vents I didn’t get any answer concerning the idea to open a hole in the cap of the filler as a vent and have a line from there directly to the tank. Probably none did it but anyone has an opinion on it?

Max  Cointe
mcointe(at)free.fr (mcointe(at)free.fr)
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 450 hours

F-PLDJ Dyn’Aéro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1550 heures


De : owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de Bud Yerly
Envoyé : samedi 26 janvier 2013 04:06
À : europa-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : Re: Re: Fusalage fuel stains and gauges

Roland, Max and Alan.

I have a love hate relationship with fuel gauges also. I have revisited the Priceton fuel probe (the 5S with 5 set points).

It is the same old capacitance probe, just better electrics.



Pro's:

Small hole 1/2 inch in the top of the tank with a good grommet to seal the probe in without fear of popping out and leaking. I still put a cover over the sender to make sure it can't pop out (because I have seen it on annuals).



Pretty reliable, mine is 5 years old and OK.



Quite accurate if the fuel type (mogas or aviation 100LL) is kept consistent.

With five set points I set my gauge as follows:

E=0 or reserve fuel only as the gauge is on the pilot side.

1/4 = 2.5 gallons (basically filled to the hump).

1/2 = 5.0 gallons (that is the height of most tanks just at the level of the top of the arm rest (wheel well to the bulkhead point)

3/4 = 10 gallons (about the height at the break of the tank)

F= 15 plus reserve so basically full with the old 18 gallon tank. The new tank is nearly 20.



These points are pretty linear between each set point so it cuts down on the mental gymnastics. I use a Westach gauge, but have done it with the Dynon and the gauges are reliable. I am impressed with the consistency over time.



Cons:

As you know, if you change gas, all your settings change. What a pain.

Takes a while to set the points.

Did I mention it was a pain if you change gas.

Not all EFIS or EIS systems read capacitance probes.



The Europa float works quite well in the planes I installed it in. It is just a dumb cork float and resistance pot.

If you are willing to experiment, there is a cute fuel bobber used in marine tanks with a spiral cork attached to a gauge. It reads on a 90 degree angle. Stupid simple, works with any fuel, but is behind you. They do make an electronic pickup. Problem is it has a large style 5 hole flange, which I hate. Mainly because the only thing to seal them with for trouble free operation is messy pro seal...



Like many, I have a JPI fuel flow sender, which is dead accurate, provided you give it the proper starting amount. Once set, on landing, note the fuel installed and add that to the amount left and it is pretty darned good on my 914.



I found out reading the new Rotax install manual that they have made a minor change to their fuel flow setups. Rotax had put in a drawing to place the fuel return orifice to be placed prior to the fuel sender. It will still regulate the pressure as it is supposed to and the 912S/ULS will have a dead accurate fuel flow reading. I haven't changed the two 912S aircraft in service in the shop, but am tempted. It is a lot of plumbing though. However, in August 2012 Rotax changed their Install manual and removed it because of their new fuel rail with built in return and orifice. Anyway, it is quite interesting.



I have the drawing in an old manual. The problem is the orifice needs to be downstream of the mechanical pump, and the fuel flow sender is not made to take heat/fire in the engine compartment (manufacturer of the senders recommends and FAA frowns on senders in the engine compartment). One would have to take the line from the mechanical pump put in a tee with an orifice and return line back to the tank. From that tee the line continues to the fuel flow sender, then back to the carbs. The requirements of the fuel system is still met as the orifice drops the fuel pressure from the pumps just a bit to 5.8 max to keep the float needle operating properly...



Regards,

Bud Yerly

914, sight gauge that works, capacitance fuel gauge, JPI totalizer and of course a wrist watch, tach, MP and fuel charts.... Talk about department of redundant redundancy.


[quote]
---


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Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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Max8992
Europa XS #560 F-PMLH
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kheindl(at)msn.com
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 7:56 am    Post subject: Fusalage fuel stains and gauges Reply with quote

Max,

My only concern would be for rain water to get in.
I may change my venting setup and I have studied all the other solutions.
I would put a Y-fitting on top of the cobra, then connect the tank vent and the sight tube vent to it.
The actual vent then would be the third outlet, and it would go down and exit the fuselage via one of the reclaimed ss elbows at a point where it would be hidden by the wing root. I would put a fine mesh gauze over the opening to ensure that no insects ever get into it.
Would that be a stupid idea ? I like simple solutions
Karl

From: mcointe(at)free.fr
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Re: Fusalage fuel stains and gauges
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2013 15:31:41 +0100
Bud,
 
Some transceivers (FT-60, Vortex, …) are said to be operational in the engine compartment. Then it’s easy to put it between the tee (the other side of the tee being the return line) and the carbs. That’s what I will install next as one has done already in few ships.
Back to vents I didn’t get any answer concerning the idea to open a hole in the cap of the filler as a vent and have a line from there directly to the tank. Probably none did it but anyone has an opinion on it?
 
Max  Cointe
mcointe(at)free.fr (mcointe(at)free.fr)
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 450 hours
 
F-PLDJ Dyn’Aéro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1550 heures

 
De : owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de Bud Yerly
Envoyé : samedi 26 janvier 2013 04:06
À : europa-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : Re: Re: Fusalage fuel stains and gauges
 
Roland, Max and Alan.

I have a love hate relationship with fuel gauges also.  I have revisited the Priceton fuel probe (the 5S with 5 set points).

It is the same old capacitance probe, just better electrics. 

 

Pro's: 

Small hole 1/2 inch in the top of the tank with a good grommet to seal the probe in without fear of popping out and leaking.  I still put a cover over the sender to make sure it can't pop out (because I have seen it on annuals).

 

Pretty reliable, mine is 5 years old and OK.

 

Quite accurate if the fuel type (mogas or aviation 100LL) is kept consistent.

With five set points I set my gauge as follows: 

E=0 or reserve fuel only as the gauge is on the pilot side.

1/4 = 2.5 gallons (basically filled to the hump).

1/2 = 5.0 gallons (that is the height of most tanks just at the level of the top of the arm rest (wheel well to the bulkhead point)

3/4 = 10 gallons (about the height at the break of the tank)

F= 15 plus reserve so basically full with the old 18 gallon tank.  The new tank is nearly 20.

 

These points are pretty linear between each set point so it cuts down on the mental gymnastics.  I use a Westach gauge, but have done it with the Dynon and the gauges are reliable.  I am impressed with the consistency over time.

 

Cons: 

As you know, if you change gas, all your settings change.  What a pain.

Takes a while to set the points.

Did I mention it was a pain if you change gas.

Not all EFIS or EIS systems read capacitance probes.

 

The Europa float works quite well in the planes I installed it in.  It is just a dumb cork float and resistance pot.

If you are willing to experiment, there is a cute fuel bobber used in marine tanks with a spiral cork attached to a gauge.  It reads on a 90 degree angle.  Stupid simple, works with any fuel, but is behind you.  They do make an electronic pickup.  Problem is it has a large style 5 hole flange, which I hate.  Mainly because the only thing to seal them with for trouble free operation is messy pro seal...

 

Like many, I have a JPI fuel flow sender, which is dead accurate, provided you give it the proper starting amount.  Once set, on landing, note the fuel installed and add that to the amount left and it is pretty darned good on my 914.

 

I found out reading the new Rotax install manual that they have made a minor change to their fuel flow setups.    Rotax had put in a drawing to place the fuel return orifice to be placed prior to the fuel sender.  It will still regulate the pressure as it is supposed to and the 912S/ULS will have  a dead accurate fuel flow reading.  I haven't changed the two 912S aircraft in service in the shop, but am tempted.  It is a lot of plumbing though.  However, in August 2012 Rotax changed their Install manual and removed it because of their new fuel rail with built in return and orifice.  Anyway, it is quite interesting.

 

I have the drawing in an old manual.  The problem is the orifice needs to be downstream of the mechanical pump, and the fuel flow sender is not made to take heat/fire in the engine compartment (manufacturer of the senders recommends and FAA frowns on senders in the engine compartment).  One would have to take the line from the mechanical pump put in a tee with an orifice and return line back to the tank.  From that tee the line continues to the fuel flow sender, then back to the carbs.  The requirements of the fuel system is still met as the orifice drops the fuel pressure from the pumps just a bit to 5.8 max to keep the float needle operating properly...

 

Regards,

Bud Yerly

914, sight gauge that works, capacitance fuel gauge, JPI totalizer and of course a wrist watch, tach, MP and fuel charts...  Talk about department of redundant redundancy.

 
[quote]
---


- The Matronics Europa-List Email Forum -
 

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
Back to top
max8992



Joined: 28 Jul 2011
Posts: 142

PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 9:25 am    Post subject: Fusalage fuel stains and gauges Reply with quote

Karl,
Simple : you’ve stolen my word. That’s why instead of having the vent line of your Y go down I would just drill the cap and may be insert some piece to avoid rain to get in…

Max  Cointe
mcointe(at)free.fr (mcointe(at)free.fr)
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 450 hours

F-PLDJ Dyn’Aéro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1550 heures


De : owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de Karl Heindl
Envoyé : samedi 26 janvier 2013 16:56
À : europa-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : RE: Re: Fusalage fuel stains and gauges

Max,


My only concern would be for rain water to get in.



I may change my venting setup and I have studied all the other solutions.

I would put a Y-fitting on top of the cobra, then connect the tank vent and the sight tube vent to it.

The actual vent then would be the third outlet, and it would go down and exit the fuselage via one of the reclaimed ss elbows at a point where it would be hidden by the wing root. I would put a fine mesh gauze over the opening to ensure that no insects ever get into it.

Would that be a stupid idea ? I like simple solutions



Karl





From: mcointe(at)free.fr (mcointe(at)free.fr)
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com (europa-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: RE: Re: Fusalage fuel stains and gauges
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2013 15:31:41 +0100
Bud,

Some transceivers (FT-60, Vortex, …) are said to be operational in the engine compartment. Then it’s easy to put it between the tee (the other side of the tee being the return line) and the carbs. That’s what I will install next as one has done already in few ships.
Back to vents I didn’t get any answer concerning the idea to open a hole in the cap of the filler as a vent and have a line from there directly to the tank. Probably none did it but anyone has an opinion on it?

Max Cointe
mcointe(at)free.fr (mcointe(at)free.fr)
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 450 hours

F-PLDJ Dyn’Aéro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1550 heures


De : owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com)] De la part de Bud Yerly
Envoyé : samedi 26 janvier 2013 04:06
À : europa-list(at)matronics.com (europa-list(at)matronics.com)
Objet : Re: Re: Fusalage fuel stains and gauges

Roland, Max and Alan.

I have a love hate relationship with fuel gauges also. I have revisited the Priceton fuel probe (the 5S with 5 set points).

It is the same old capacitance probe, just better electrics.



Pro's:

Small hole 1/2 inch in the top of the tank with a good grommet to seal the probe in without fear of popping out and leaking. I still put a cover over the sender to make sure it can't pop out (because I have seen it on annuals).



Pretty reliable, mine is 5 years old and OK.



Quite accurate if the fuel type (mogas or aviation 100LL) is kept consistent.

With five set points I set my gauge as follows:

E=0 or reserve fuel only as the gauge is on the pilot side.

1/4 = 2.5 gallons (basically filled to the hump).

1/2 = 5.0 gallons (that is the height of most tanks just at the level of the top of the arm rest (wheel well to the bulkhead point)

3/4 = 10 gallons (about the height at the break of the tank)

F= 15 plus reserve so basically full with the old 18 gallon tank. The new tank is nearly 20.



These points are pretty linear between each set point so it cuts down on the mental gymnastics. I use a Westach gauge, but have done it with the Dynon and the gauges are reliable. I am impressed with the consistency over time.



Cons:

As you know, if you change gas, all your settings change. What a pain.

Takes a while to set the points.

Did I mention it was a pain if you change gas.

Not all EFIS or EIS systems read capacitance probes.



The Europa float works quite well in the planes I installed it in. It is just a dumb cork float and resistance pot.

If you are willing to experiment, there is a cute fuel bobber used in marine tanks with a spiral cork attached to a gauge. It reads on a 90 degree angle. Stupid simple, works with any fuel, but is behind you. They do make an electronic pickup. Problem is it has a large style 5 hole flange, which I hate. Mainly because the only thing to seal them with for trouble free operation is messy pro seal...



Like many, I have a JPI fuel flow sender, which is dead accurate, provided you give it the proper starting amount. Once set, on landing, note the fuel installed and add that to the amount left and it is pretty darned good on my 914.



I found out reading the new Rotax install manual that they have made a minor change to their fuel flow setups. Rotax had put in a drawing to place the fuel return orifice to be placed prior to the fuel sender. It will still regulate the pressure as it is supposed to and the 912S/ULS will have a dead accurate fuel flow reading. I haven't changed the two 912S aircraft in service in the shop, but am tempted. It is a lot of plumbing though. However, in August 2012 Rotax changed their Install manual and removed it because of their new fuel rail with built in return and orifice. Anyway, it is quite interesting.



I have the drawing in an old manual. The problem is the orifice needs to be downstream of the mechanical pump, and the fuel flow sender is not made to take heat/fire in the engine compartment (manufacturer of the senders recommends and FAA frowns on senders in the engine compartment). One would have to take the line from the mechanical pump put in a tee with an orifice and return line back to the tank. From that tee the line continues to the fuel flow sender, then back to the carbs. The requirements of the fuel system is still met as the orifice drops the fuel pressure from the pumps just a bit to 5.8 max to keep the float needle operating properly...



Regards,

Bud Yerly

914, sight gauge that works, capacitance fuel gauge, JPI totalizer and of course a wrist watch, tach, MP and fuel charts.... Talk about department of redundant redundancy.


[quote]
---


- The Matronics Europa-List Email Forum -
 

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List

_________________
Max8992
Europa XS #560 F-PMLH
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
kheindl(at)msn.com
Guest





PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 9:43 am    Post subject: Fusalage fuel stains and gauges Reply with quote

Max,

Sounds okay to me. I don't have a filler cap to hand, but you can probably drill a 5mm hole, and bond in a little piece of pipe shaped like an inverted U.
karl
From: mcointe(at)free.fr
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Re: Fusalage fuel stains and gauges
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 18:24:33 +0100


Karl,
Simple : you’ve stolen my word. That’s why instead of having the vent line of your Y go down I would just drill the cap and may be insert some piece to avoid rain to get in…
 
Max  Cointe
mcointe(at)free.fr (mcointe(at)free.fr)
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 450 hours
 
F-PLDJ Dyn’Aéro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1550 heures

 
De : owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de Karl Heindl
Envoyé : samedi 26 janvier 2013 16:56
À : europa-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : RE: Re: Fusalage fuel stains and gauges
 
Max,
 

My only concern would be for rain water to get in.

 

I may change my venting setup and I have studied all the other solutions.

I would put a Y-fitting on top of the cobra, then connect the tank vent and the sight tube vent to it.

The actual vent then would be the third outlet, and it would go down and exit the fuselage via one of the reclaimed ss elbows at a point where it would be hidden by the wing root. I would put a fine mesh gauze over the opening to ensure that no insects ever get into it.

Would that be a stupid idea ? I like simple solutions

 

Karl

 

 

From: mcointe(at)free.fr (mcointe(at)free.fr)
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com (europa-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: RE: Re: Fusalage fuel stains and gauges
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2013 15:31:41 +0100
Bud,
 
Some transceivers (FT-60, Vortex, …) are said to be operational in the engine compartment. Then it’s easy to put it between the tee (the other side of the tee being the return line) and the carbs. That’s what I will install next as one has done already in few ships.
Back to vents I didn’t get any answer concerning the idea to open a hole in the cap of the filler as a vent and have a line from there directly to the tank. Probably none did it but anyone has an opinion on it?
 
Max  Cointe
mcointe(at)free.fr (mcointe(at)free.fr)
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 450 hours
 
F-PLDJ Dyn’Aéro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1550 heures

 
De : owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com)] De la part de Bud Yerly
Envoyé : samedi 26 janvier 2013 04:06
À : europa-list(at)matronics.com (europa-list(at)matronics.com)
Objet : Re: Europa-List: Re: Fusalage fuel stains and gauges
 
Roland, Max and Alan.

I have a love hate relationship with fuel gauges also.  I have revisited the Priceton fuel probe (the 5S with 5 set points).

It is the same old capacitance probe, just better electrics. 

 

Pro's: 

Small hole 1/2 inch in the top of the tank with a good grommet to seal the probe in without fear of popping out and leaking.  I still put a cover over the sender to make sure it can't pop out (because I have seen it on annuals).

 

Pretty reliable, mine is 5 years old and OK.

 

Quite accurate if the fuel type (mogas or aviation 100LL) is kept consistent.

With five set points I set my gauge as follows: 

E=0 or reserve fuel only as the gauge is on the pilot side.

1/4 = 2.5 gallons (basically filled to the hump).

1/2 = 5.0 gallons (that is the height of most tanks just at the level of the top of the arm rest (wheel well to the bulkhead point)

3/4 = 10 gallons (about the height at the break of the tank)

F= 15 plus reserve so basically full with the old 18 gallon tank.  The new tank is nearly 20.

 

These points are pretty linear between each set point so it cuts down on the mental gymnastics.  I use a Westach gauge, but have done it with the Dynon and the gauges are reliable.  I am impressed with the consistency over time.

 

Cons: 

As you know, if you change gas, all your settings change.  What a pain.

Takes a while to set the points.

Did I mention it was a pain if you change gas.

Not all EFIS or EIS systems read capacitance probes.

 

The Europa float works quite well in the planes I installed it in.  It is just a dumb cork float and resistance pot.

If you are willing to experiment, there is a cute fuel bobber used in marine tanks with a spiral cork attached to a gauge.  It reads on a 90 degree angle.  Stupid simple, works with any fuel, but is behind you.  They do make an electronic pickup.  Problem is it has a large style 5 hole flange, which I hate.  Mainly because the only thing to seal them with for trouble free operation is messy pro seal...

 

Like many, I have a JPI fuel flow sender, which is dead accurate, provided you give it the proper starting amount.  Once set, on landing, note the fuel installed and add that to the amount left and it is pretty darned good on my 914.

 

I found out reading the new Rotax install manual that they have made a minor change to their fuel flow setups.    Rotax had put in a drawing to place the fuel return orifice to be placed prior to the fuel sender.  It will still regulate the pressure as it is supposed to and the 912S/ULS will have  a dead accurate fuel flow reading.  I haven't changed the two 912S aircraft in service in the shop, but am tempted.  It is a lot of plumbing though.  However, in August 2012 Rotax changed their Install manual and removed it because of their new fuel rail with built in return and orifice.  Anyway, it is quite interesting.

 

I have the drawing in an old manual.  The problem is the orifice needs to be downstream of the mechanical pump, and the fuel flow sender is not made to take heat/fire in the engine compartment (manufacturer of the senders recommends and FAA frowns on senders in the engine compartment).  One would have to take the line from the mechanical pump put in a tee with an orifice and return line back to the tank.  From that tee the line continues to the fuel flow sender, then back to the carbs.  The requirements of the fuel system is still met as the orifice drops the fuel pressure from the pumps just a bit to 5.8 max to keep the float needle operating properly...

 

Regards,

Bud Yerly

914, sight gauge that works, capacitance fuel gauge, JPI totalizer and of course a wrist watch, tach, MP and fuel charts....  Talk about department of redundant redundancy.

 
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budyerly(at)msn.com
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 9:03 pm    Post subject: Fusalage fuel stains and gauges Reply with quote

<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]--> Max,
Sorry I got tied up with Mod 78 and other issues and have neglected to review the matronics list.
I would not say it is easy to put a FF sender it into the engine compartment, but I have known guys to get good results providing the inlet and outlet through the sender is straight for a few inches.

I don't know why you want to put a hole in the filler cap. If fuel over boarding is a problem, talk to your mechanic and vent the tank out the bottom by adding a tee and let the gas run on the ground.

Or am I missing something.

Email off line to budyerly(at)msn.com (budyerly(at)msn.com).

Regards,
Bud

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Joined: 28 Jul 2011
Posts: 142

PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 12:43 am    Post subject: Fusalage fuel stains and gauges Reply with quote

Bud,

FF sender : I forecast to install it this summer and I’ll et you know.
Hole in cap: this was just to limit the number of holes and length of tube for vent of the tank and the visual gauge. I would be really surprised that fuel goes out through this hole (BTW I am my mechanic J)

Max  Cointe
mcointe(at)free.fr (mcointe(at)free.fr)
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 450 hours

F-PLDJ Dyn’Aéro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1550 heures

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