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Nose gear leg repair using taper pin

 
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recapen(at)earthlink.net
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 12:00 pm    Post subject: Nose gear leg repair using taper pin Reply with quote

Folks,

Quote:
From the archives, I have retrieved a number of postings on replacing the AN5-20A bolt/assembly with a taper pin.
That process involves the pin going in from the bottom - requiring separating the engine mount from the airframe.


Has anyone performed this repair from the top-down? This looks like it could be done with the engine mount still attached. I don't recall the engine-mount weldment configuration - that may dictate the direction of the taper pin.

I have a barely perceptible movement in my nose gear leg and I want to get it fixed before it gets worse. Acknowledging I am at a less than smooth grass field which is a contributing factor - this may only be a temporary fix.

Thanks,
Ralph Capen
RV6A N822AR (at) N06 190hrs


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decaclops(at)gmail.com
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 7:10 pm    Post subject: Nose gear leg repair using taper pin Reply with quote

Howdy Ralph,

Yup, I did it that way. It's a real pain to work behind the engine. I
drilled the pilot with a Milwaukee angle drill and worked the taper ream
with an air ratchet. I set the air pressure very low, just high enough
to keep the ratchet from stalling and used lots of cutting oil. It took
a long time and was painful to reach, but the nose gear is rock solid
now. I think I remember beating the firewall up a bit to make room to
get the taper pin washer, nut, and cotter pin on.

If I had it to do over, I'd probably pull the engine as far as the
hookups would allow and leave it dangling from the hoist while I worked
to make better access.

Ed Holyoke

On 7/1/2013 12:59 PM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
Quote:


Folks,

>From the archives, I have retrieved a number of postings on replacing the AN5-20A bolt/assembly with a taper pin.
That process involves the pin going in from the bottom - requiring separating the engine mount from the airframe.

Has anyone performed this repair from the top-down? This looks like it could be done with the engine mount still attached. I don't recall the engine-mount weldment configuration - that may dictate the direction of the taper pin.

I have a barely perceptible movement in my nose gear leg and I want to get it fixed before it gets worse. Acknowledging I am at a less than smooth grass field which is a contributing factor - this may only be a temporary fix.

Thanks,
Ralph Capen
RV6A N822AR (at) N06 190hrs


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recapen(at)earthlink.net
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 3:17 am    Post subject: Nose gear leg repair using taper pin Reply with quote

Ed,

Thanks for your response. I am especially glad to hear that it cured the issue in your case.
I'm still looking to review the plans and look at the mounting tube area again to see if there are differences between the top/forward and bottom/aft sides...that may influence my solution method.

I am leaning towards your method as it will allow the repair with a minimal amount of dis-assembly - my plan 'B' is the same as your 'had it to do over'.

Ralph
--


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burnsm(at)suddenlink.net
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 4:59 am    Post subject: Nose gear leg repair using taper pin Reply with quote

Guys,
Another option is to use loctite.
I used loctite 609 with a new bolt and it kept things tight for about two
years. I discovered loctite 680 which is even better for this aplication
and used it about six months ago. So the jury is still out but it's an easy
fix for sure.
Slide the gear leg out. Clean it up and slather it up with loctite and
reassemble.
I move my 7A around without a tow bar most of the time and that "click" of
a loose nose gear is very annoying to me!
And yes you can get apart later if you need to for some reason. Just some
heat from a heat gun will soften it enough for removal.

Mark Burns
7A. 870 hours

Quote:
From my Galaxy S3

On July 2, 2013 6:16:41 AM "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> wrote:
[quote]

Ed,
Thanks for your response. I am especially glad to hear that it cured the
issue in your case.
I'm still looking to review the plans and look at the mounting tube area
again to see if there are differences between the top/forward and
bottom/aft sides...that may influence my solution method.
I am leaning towards your method as it will allow the repair with a minimal
amount of dis-assembly - my plan 'B' is the same as your 'had it to do over'.

Ralph
--


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recapen(at)earthlink.net
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 5:12 am    Post subject: Nose gear leg repair using taper pin Reply with quote

Interesting option - I will look in to it!
--


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