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vincefrazier(at)gmail.com
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 Posted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 5:48 am Post subject: tailwheel powder coating |
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SNIPTime: 05:11:24 PM PST US
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com (dralle(at)matronics.com)>
Subject: Tailwheel Bearing - Separating Bronze Bearing...
Dear Listers,
Well, I disassembled the tailwheel on the RV-6 and RV-8 this weekend and took the
wad of parts including the steel spring, bearing knuckles, forks and little
hub caps to the local powdercoaters.
But they won't accept the bearing knuckle because it has a bronze or brass sleeve!
They claim it will leak oil and make a mess in the oven. They expect me
to somehow get that sleeve out of the steel part! That seems crazy? Is that
even possible? Surely it won't just come out with a gentle knocking, will it?
Help...
Thanks!
Matt Dralle SNIP
Matt,
Don't take it out unless you are prepared to install a brand new one, which requires minor machining around the cam groove. Removal will undoubtedly loosen it to the point that it is sloppy.
FWIW, we use engineered plastic bushings in our mounting sockets... but those can't be baked either! They are easier to install/machine, more durable, and don't require the locking screw to retain them. (Don't mistake the locking screw for a grease zerk... it's useless to grease the spindle with it. You need to disassemble the parts to properly grease them.)
I suggest that you bead blast the parts and paint them. Sorry.
FWIW, in my experience, powder coating is not appropriate for aviation steel parts. ( I can feel the flames already.) For example, I have an Avid Flyer engine mount in my shop right now that is about 20 years old and the powder coating is cracked and flaking in several spots. There is heavy rust beneath.... which is invisible until it flakes. The plane has been hangared all of it's life and has only 250 hours on it. To me, that powder coating is an accident waiting to happen. It's also rather difficult to strip off. Why anyone would use it is beyond my grasp. Sure, it looks nice... but is it worth your life if it hides cracks and rust?
YMMV,
Vince
www.flyboyaccessories.com
[quote][b]
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Gary.A.Sobek
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 217
Location: SoCAL USA
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| Posted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 8:00 am Post subject: tailwheel powder coating |
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Echoing some of what Vince said, I do not like Powder Coast on high stress steel airplane parts. The Powder coat tends to hide cracks that paint will not. Do you want a crack to develop in one of your steel parts and be hidden from view?
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,720+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 08:47:53 -0500
Subject: tailwheel powder coating
From: vincefrazier(at)gmail.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
SNIPTime: 05:11:24 PM PST US
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com (dralle(at)matronics.com)>
Subject: Tailwheel Bearing - Separating Bronze Bearing...
Dear Listers,
Well, I disassembled the tailwheel on the RV-6 and RV-8 this weekend and took the
wad of parts including the steel spring, bearing knuckles, forks and little
hub caps to the local powdercoaters.
But they won't accept the bearing knuckle because it has a bronze or brass sleeve!
They claim it will leak oil and make a mess in the oven. They expect me
to somehow get that sleeve out of the steel part! That seems crazy? Is that
even possible? Surely it won't just come out with a gentle knocking, will it?
Help...
Thanks!
Matt Dralle SNIP
Matt,
Don't take it out unless you are prepared to install a brand new one, which requires minor machining around the cam groove. Removal will undoubtedly loosen it to the point that it is sloppy.
FWIW, we use engineered plastic bushings in our mounting sockets... but those can't be baked either! They are easier to install/machine, more durable, and don't require the locking screw to retain them. (Don't mistake the locking screw for a grease zerk... it's useless to grease the spindle with it. You need to disassemble the parts to properly grease them.)
I suggest that you bead blast the parts and paint them. Sorry.
FWIW, in my experience, powder coating is not appropriate for aviation steel parts. ( I can feel the flames already.) For example, I have an Avid Flyer engine mount in my shop right now that is about 20 years old and the powder coating is cracked and flaking in several spots. There is heavy rust beneath.... which is invisible until it flakes. The plane has been hangared all of it's life and has only 250 hours on it. To me, that powder coating is an accident waiting to happen. It's also rather difficult to strip off. Why anyone would use it is beyond my grasp. Sure, it looks nice... but is it worth your life if it hides cracks and rust?
YMMV,
Vince
www.flyboyaccessories.com
[quote]
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HCRV6(at)comcast.net
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 9:52 am Post subject: tailwheel powder coating |
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Back when I was building my RV-6 slider, I discovered that my brand new powder coated canopy bar was rusted in many places under the powder coating. The only way I discovered that was that I accidentally chipped the powder coating in one place and noticed the rust underneath. It took me several weeks of grinding and chipping to remove all the powder coat so that I could paint the bar. After that I would be very reluctant to use powder coating on critical steel parts.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 1082 hours
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 2, 2013 9:00:25 AM
Subject: RE: tailwheel powder coating
Echoing some of what Vince said, I do not like Powder Coast on high stress steel airplane parts. The Powder coat tends to hide cracks that paint will not. Do you want a crack to develop in one of your steel parts and be hidden from view?
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,720+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 08:47:53 -0500
Subject: tailwheel powder coating
From: vincefrazier(at)gmail.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
SNIPTime: 05:11:24 PM PST US
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com (dralle(at)matronics.com)>
Subject: Tailwheel Bearing - Separating Bronze Bearing...
Dear Listers,
Well, I disassembled the tailwheel on the RV-6 and RV-8 this weekend and took the
wad of parts including the steel spring, bearing knuckles, forks and little
hub caps to the local powdercoaters.
But they won't accept the bearing knuckle because it has a bronze or brass sleeve!
They claim it will leak oil and make a mess in the oven. They expect me
to somehow get that sleeve out of the steel part! That seems crazy? Is that
even possible? Surely it won't just come out with a gentle knocking, will it?
Help...
Thanks!
Matt Dralle SNIP
Matt,
Don't take it out unless you are prepared to install a brand new one, which requires minor machining around the cam groove. Removal will undoubtedly loosen it to the point that it is sloppy.
FWIW, we use engineered plastic bushings in our mounting sockets... but those can't be baked either! They are easier to install/machine, more durable, and don't require the locking screw to retain them. (Don't mistake the locking screw for a grease zerk... it's useless to grease the spindle with it. You need to disassemble the parts to properly grease them.)
I suggest that you bead blast the parts and paint them. Sorry.
FWIW, in my experience, powder coating is not appropriate for aviation steel parts. ( I can feel the flames already.) For example, I have an Avid Flyer engine mount in my shop right now that is about 20 years old and the powder coating is cracked and flaking in several spots. There is heavy rust beneath.... which is invisible until it flakes. The plane has been hangared all of it's life and has only 250 hours on it. To me, that powder coating is an accident waiting to happen. It's also rather difficult to strip off. Why anyone would use it is beyond my grasp. Sure, it looks nice... but is it worth your life if it hides cracks and rust?
YMMV,
Vince
www.flyboyaccessories.com
[quote]
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mr.sun
Joined: 30 Jan 2007
Posts: 85
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| Posted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 10:07 am Post subject: tailwheel powder coating |
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What about the engine mount?
Greg On Jul 2, 2013 10:55 AM, <HCRV6(at)comcast.net (HCRV6(at)comcast.net)> wrote:[quote] Back when I was building my RV-6 slider, I discovered that my brand new powder coated canopy bar was rusted in many places under the powder coating. The only way I discovered that was that I accidentally chipped the powder coating in one place and noticed the rust underneath. It took me several weeks of grinding and chipping to remove all the powder coat so that I could paint the bar. After that I would be very reluctant to use powder coating on critical steel parts.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 1082 hours
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com (rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com)>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com (rv-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Tuesday, July 2, 2013 9:00:25 AM
Subject: RE: tailwheel powder coating
Echoing some of what Vince said, I do not like Powder Coast on high stress steel airplane parts. The Powder coat tends to hide cracks that paint will not. Do you want a crack to develop in one of your steel parts and be hidden from view?
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,720+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 08:47:53 -0500
Subject: tailwheel powder coating
From: vincefrazier(at)gmail.com (vincefrazier(at)gmail.com)
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com (rv-list(at)matronics.com)
SNIPTime: 05:11:24 PM PST US
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com (dralle(at)matronics.com)>
Subject: Tailwheel Bearing - Separating Bronze Bearing...
Dear Listers,
Well, I disassembled the tailwheel on the RV-6 and RV-8 this weekend and took the
wad of parts including the steel spring, bearing knuckles, forks and little
hub caps to the local powdercoaters.
But they won't accept the bearing knuckle because it has a bronze or brass sleeve!
They claim it will leak oil and make a mess in the oven. They expect me
to somehow get that sleeve out of the steel part! That seems crazy? Is that
even possible? Surely it won't just come out with a gentle knocking, will it?
Help...
Thanks!
Matt Dralle SNIP
Matt,
Don't take it out unless you are prepared to install a brand new one, which requires minor machining around the cam groove. Removal will undoubtedly loosen it to the point that it is sloppy.
FWIW, we use engineered plastic bushings in our mounting sockets... but those can't be baked either! They are easier to install/machine, more durable, and don't require the locking screw to retain them. (Don't mistake the locking screw for a grease zerk... it's useless to grease the spindle with it. You need to disassemble the parts to properly grease them.)
I suggest that you bead blast the parts and paint them. Sorry.
FWIW, in my experience, powder coating is not appropriate for aviation steel parts. ( I can feel the flames already.) For example, I have an Avid Flyer engine mount in my shop right now that is about 20 years old and the powder coating is cracked and flaking in several spots. There is heavy rust beneath.... which is invisible until it flakes. The plane has been hangared all of it's life and has only 250 hours on it. To me, that powder coating is an accident waiting to happen. It's also rather difficult to strip off. Why anyone would use it is beyond my grasp. Sure, it looks nice... but is it worth your life if it hides cracks and rust?
YMMV,
Vince
www.flyboyaccessories.com
[b]
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Greg RV-7 |
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HCRV6(at)comcast.net
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 2:29 pm Post subject: tailwheel powder coating |
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After the canopy frame experience, I ordered the engine mount bare and painted it myself.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 1082 hours
From: "mr gsun" <mr.gsun(at)gmail.com>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 2, 2013 11:06:44 AM
Subject: Re: tailwheel powder coating
What about the engine mount?
Greg On Jul 2, 2013 10:55 AM, <HCRV6(at)comcast.net (HCRV6(at)comcast.net)> wrote:
[quote] Back when I was building my RV-6 slider, I discovered that my brand new powder coated canopy bar was rusted in many places under the powder coating. The only way I discovered that was that I accidentally chipped the powder coating in one place and noticed the rust underneath. It took me several weeks of grinding and chipping to remove all the powder coat so that I could paint the bar. After that I would be very reluctant to use powder coating on critical steel parts.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 1082 hours
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com (rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com)>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com (rv-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Tuesday, July 2, 2013 9:00:25 AM
Subject: RE: tailwheel powder coating
Echoing some of what Vince said, I do not like Powder Coast on high stress steel airplane parts. The Powder coat tends to hide cracks that paint will not. Do you want a crack to develop in one of your steel parts and be hidden from view?
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,720+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 08:47:53 -0500
Subject: tailwheel powder coating
From: vincefrazier(at)gmail.com (vincefrazier(at)gmail.com)
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com (rv-list(at)matronics.com)
SNIPTime: 05:11:24 PM PST US
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com (dralle(at)matronics.com)>
Subject: Tailwheel Bearing - Separating Bronze Bearing...
Dear Listers,
Well, I disassembled the tailwheel on the RV-6 and RV-8 this weekend and took the
wad of parts including the steel spring, bearing knuckles, forks and little
hub caps to the local powdercoaters.
But they won't accept the bearing knuckle because it has a bronze or brass sleeve!
They claim it will leak oil and make a mess in the oven. They expect me
to somehow get that sleeve out of the steel part! That seems crazy? Is that
even possible? Surely it won't just come out with a gentle knocking, will it?
Help...
Thanks!
Matt Dralle SNIP
Matt,
Don't take it out unless you are prepared to install a brand new one, which requires minor machining around the cam groove. Removal will undoubtedly loosen it to the point that it is sloppy.
FWIW, we use engineered plastic bushings in our mounting sockets... but those can't be baked either! They are easier to install/machine, more durable, and don't require the locking screw to retain them. (Don't mistake the locking screw for a grease zerk... it's useless to grease the spindle with it. You need to disassemble the parts to properly grease them.)
I suggest that you bead blast the parts and paint them. Sorry.
FWIW, in my experience, powder coating is not appropriate for aviation steel parts. ( I can feel the flames already.) For example, I have an Avid Flyer engine mount in my shop right now that is about 20 years old and the powder coating is cracked and flaking in several spots. There is heavy rust beneath.... which is invisible until it flakes. The plane has been hangared all of it's life and has only 250 hours on it. To me, that powder coating is an accident waiting to happen. It's also rather difficult to strip off. Why anyone would use it is beyond my grasp. Sure, it looks nice... but is it worth your life if it hides cracks and rust?
YMMV,
Vince
www.flyboyaccessories.com
[b]
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SCHYBOLT(at)austin.rr.com
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 6:16 pm Post subject: tailwheel powder coating |
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WHAT ABOUT THE LANDING GEAR???????????
From: mr.gsun(at)gmail.com (mr.gsun(at)gmail.com)
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 1:06 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com (rv-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: tailwheel powder coating
What about the engine mount?
Greg On Jul 2, 2013 10:55 AM, <HCRV6(at)comcast.net (HCRV6(at)comcast.net)> wrote: [quote] Back when I was building my RV-6 slider, I discovered that my brand new powder coated canopy bar was rusted in many places under the powder coating. The only way I discovered that was that I accidentally chipped the powder coating in one place and noticed the rust underneath. It took me several weeks of grinding and chipping to remove all the powder coat so that I could paint the bar. After that I would be very reluctant to use powder coating on critical steel parts.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 1082 hours
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com (rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com)>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com (rv-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Tuesday, July 2, 2013 9:00:25 AM
Subject: RE: tailwheel powder coating
Echoing some of what Vince said, I do not like Powder Coast on high stress steel airplane parts. The Powder coat tends to hide cracks that paint will not. Do you want a crack to develop in one of your steel parts and be hidden from view?
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,720+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 08:47:53 -0500
Subject: tailwheel powder coating
From: vincefrazier(at)gmail.com (vincefrazier(at)gmail.com)
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com (rv-list(at)matronics.com)
SNIPTime: 05:11:24 PM PST US
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com (dralle(at)matronics.com)>
Subject: Tailwheel Bearing - Separating Bronze Bearing...
Dear Listers,
Well, I disassembled the tailwheel on the RV-6 and RV-8 this weekend and took the
wad of parts including the steel spring, bearing knuckles, forks and little
hub caps to the local powdercoaters.
But they won't accept the bearing knuckle because it has a bronze or brass sleeve!
They claim it will leak oil and make a mess in the oven. They expect me
to somehow get that sleeve out of the steel part! That seems crazy? Is that
even possible? Surely it won't just come out with a gentle knocking, will it?
Help...
Thanks!
Matt Dralle SNIP
Matt,
Don't take it out unless you are prepared to install a brand new one, which requires minor machining around the cam groove. Removal will undoubtedly loosen it to the point that it is sloppy.
FWIW, we use engineered plastic bushings in our mounting sockets... but those can't be baked either! They are easier to install/machine, more durable, and don't require the locking screw to retain them. (Don't mistake the locking screw for a grease zerk... it's useless to grease the spindle with it. You need to disassemble the parts to properly grease them.)
I suggest that you bead blast the parts and paint them. Sorry.
FWIW, in my experience, powder coating is not appropriate for aviation steel parts. ( I can feel the flames already.) For example, I have an Avid Flyer engine mount in my shop right now that is about 20 years old and the powder coating is cracked and flaking in several spots. There is heavy rust beneath.... which is invisible until it flakes. The plane has been hangared all of it's life and has only 250 hours on it. To me, that powder coating is an accident waiting to happen. It's also rather difficult to strip off. Why anyone would use it is beyond my grasp. Sure, it looks nice... but is it worth your life if it hides cracks and rust?
YMMV,
Vince
www.flyboyaccessories.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
[b]
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Kellym
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1705
Location: Sun Lakes AZ
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| Posted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 7:50 pm Post subject: tailwheel powder coating |
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What about all the steel parts that Vans supplies already powder coated?
Like main gear mounts, engine mount, various bellcranks, etc.???
On 7/2/2013 7:15 PM, LARRY C. BOWLES wrote:
| Quote: | WHAT ABOUT THE LANDING GEAR???????????
*From:* mr.gsun(at)gmail.com <mailto:mr.gsun(at)gmail.com>
*Sent:* Tuesday, July 02, 2013 1:06 PM
*To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com <mailto:rv-list(at)matronics.com>
*Subject:* Re: tailwheel powder coating
What about the engine mount?
Greg
On Jul 2, 2013 10:55 AM, <HCRV6(at)comcast.net
<mailto:HCRV6(at)comcast.net>> wrote:
Back when I was building my RV-6 slider, I discovered that my
brand new powder coated canopy bar was rusted in many places under
the powder coating. The only way I discovered that was that I
accidentally chipped the powder coating in one place and noticed
the rust underneath. It took me several weeks of grinding and
chipping to remove all the powder coat so that I could paint the
bar. After that I would be very reluctant to use powder coating
on critical steel parts.
HarryCrosby
RV-6 N16CX, 1082 hours
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From: *"RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com
<mailto:rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>>
*To: *rv-list(at)matronics.com <mailto:rv-list(at)matronics.com>
*Sent: *Tuesday, July 2, 2013 9:00:25 AM
*Subject: *RE: tailwheel powder coating
Echoing some of what Vince said, I do not like Powder Coast on
high stress steel airplane parts. The Powder coat tends to hide
cracks that paint will not. Do you want a crack to develop in one
of your steel parts and be hidden from view?
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,720+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 08:47:53 -0500
Subject: tailwheel powder coating
From: vincefrazier(at)gmail.com <mailto:vincefrazier(at)gmail.com>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com <mailto:rv-list(at)matronics.com>
SNIPTime: 05:11:24 PM PST US
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com <mailto:dralle(at)matronics.com>>
Subject: Tailwheel Bearing - Separating Bronze Bearing...
Dear Listers,
Well, I disassembled the tailwheel on the RV-6 and RV-8 this
weekend and took the
wad of parts including the steel spring, bearing knuckles, forks
and little
hub caps to the local powdercoaters.
But they won't accept the bearing knuckle because it has a bronze
or brass sleeve!
They claim it will leak oil and make a mess in the oven. They
expect me
to somehow get that sleeve out of the steel part! That seems
crazy? Is that
even possible? Surely it won't just come out with a gentle
knocking, will it?
Help...
Thanks!
Matt Dralle SNIP
Matt,
Don't take it out unless you are prepared to install a brand new
one, which requires minor machining around the cam groove. Removal
will undoubtedly loosen it to the point that it is sloppy.
FWIW, we use engineered plastic bushings in our mounting
sockets... but those can't be baked either! They are easier to
install/machine, more durable, and don't require the locking screw
to retain them. (Don't mistake the locking screw for a grease
zerk... it's useless to grease the spindle with it. You need to
disassemble the parts to properly grease them.)
I suggest that you bead blast the parts and paint them. Sorry.
FWIW, in my experience, powder coating is not appropriate for
aviation steel parts. ( I can feel the flames already.) For
example, I have an Avid Flyer engine mount in my shop right now
that is about 20 years old and the powder coating is cracked and
flaking in several spots. There is heavy rust beneath.... which
is invisible until it flakes. The plane has been hangared all of
it's life and has only 250 hours on it. To me, that powder
coating is an accident waiting to happen. It's also rather
difficult to strip off. Why anyone would use it is beyond my
grasp. Sure, it looks nice... but is it worth your life if it
hides cracks and rust?
YMMV,
Vince
www.flyboyaccessories.com <http://www.flyboyaccessories.com>
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get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://forums.matronics.com
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
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Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 3:25 am Post subject: tailwheel powder coating |
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When I bent the canopy frame to make it fit I got cracks in the power coating and scraped some off and found rust. I thought it was probably rusty when they painted it. That could be the case with other parts as well.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A N766DH flying since 2004
In a message dated 7/2/2013 11:51:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, kellym(at)aviating.com writes:
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What about all the steel parts that Vans supplies already powder coated?
Like main gear mounts, engine mount, various bellcranks, etc.???
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vanremog(at)aol.com
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| Posted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 8:00 am Post subject: tailwheel powder coating |
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I agree with Harry. Powder Coating is a decorative coating only, not a proper aircraft quality finish with corrosion protective capabilities. Van's should never have used it in these applications on steel in my opinion.
-GV
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HCRV6(at)comcast.net
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| Posted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 10:50 am Post subject: tailwheel powder coating |
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My taildragger gear was unfinished as received, painted it myself.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 1082 hours
From: "LARRY C. BOWLES" <SCHYBOLT(at)austin.rr.com>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 2, 2013 7:15:35 PM
Subject: Re: tailwheel powder coating
WHAT ABOUT THE LANDING GEAR???????????
From: mr.gsun(at)gmail.com (mr.gsun(at)gmail.com)
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 1:06 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com (rv-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: tailwheel powder coating
What about the engine mount?
Greg On Jul 2, 2013 10:55 AM, <HCRV6(at)comcast.net (HCRV6(at)comcast.net)> wrote:
[quote] Back when I was building my RV-6 slider, I discovered that my brand new powder coated canopy bar was rusted in many places under the powder coating. The only way I discovered that was that I accidentally chipped the powder coating in one place and noticed the rust underneath. It took me several weeks of grinding and chipping to remove all the powder coat so that I could paint the bar. After that I would be very reluctant to use powder coating on critical steel parts.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 1082 hours
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com (rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com)>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com (rv-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Tuesday, July 2, 2013 9:00:25 AM
Subject: RE: tailwheel powder coating
Echoing some of what Vince said, I do not like Powder Coast on high stress steel airplane parts. The Powder coat tends to hide cracks that paint will not. Do you want a crack to develop in one of your steel parts and be hidden from view?
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,720+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 08:47:53 -0500
Subject: tailwheel powder coating
From: vincefrazier(at)gmail.com (vincefrazier(at)gmail.com)
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com (rv-list(at)matronics.com)
SNIPTime: 05:11:24 PM PST US
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com (dralle(at)matronics.com)>
Subject: Tailwheel Bearing - Separating Bronze Bearing...
Dear Listers,
Well, I disassembled the tailwheel on the RV-6 and RV-8 this weekend and took the
wad of parts including the steel spring, bearing knuckles, forks and little
hub caps to the local powdercoaters.
But they won't accept the bearing knuckle because it has a bronze or brass sleeve!
They claim it will leak oil and make a mess in the oven. They expect me
to somehow get that sleeve out of the steel part! That seems crazy? Is that
even possible? Surely it won't just come out with a gentle knocking, will it?
Help...
Thanks!
Matt Dralle SNIP
Matt,
Don't take it out unless you are prepared to install a brand new one, which requires minor machining around the cam groove. Removal will undoubtedly loosen it to the point that it is sloppy.
FWIW, we use engineered plastic bushings in our mounting sockets... but those can't be baked either! They are easier to install/machine, more durable, and don't require the locking screw to retain them. (Don't mistake the locking screw for a grease zerk... it's useless to grease the spindle with it. You need to disassemble the parts to properly grease them.)
I suggest that you bead blast the parts and paint them. Sorry.
FWIW, in my experience, powder coating is not appropriate for aviation steel parts. ( I can feel the flames already.) For example, I have an Avid Flyer engine mount in my shop right now that is about 20 years old and the powder coating is cracked and flaking in several spots. There is heavy rust beneath.... which is invisible until it flakes. The plane has been hangared all of it's life and has only 250 hours on it. To me, that powder coating is an accident waiting to happen. It's also rather difficult to strip off. Why anyone would use it is beyond my grasp. Sure, it looks nice... but is it worth your life if it hides cracks and rust?
YMMV,
Vince
www.flyboyaccessories.com
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