chaztuna(at)adelphia.net
Guest
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 Posted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 7:11 am Post subject: Fuel transport was Re: Fuel Injected - or Not |
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At 05:57 AM 6/14/2006, you wrote:
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I have a couple of nice polypropylene barrels; but, I've never used
them. I use the red 5 gallon cans because the barrels were going to
be more inconvenient to use. My truck's topper gets in the way of
anything larger. I don't want to have to pull a trailer, either.
snipped
Jim Sears in KY
EAA Tech Counselor
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Jim,
I have been considering another option. Most of us will get grief
from the local hanger landlord or fire marshal is we keep any sort of
fueling trailer or portable refueling cans in or around the hanger.
(Lots of times it's the FBO who sells fuel on the field who rats you out)
I own my own auto repair shop in Pompano Beach, Florida. I own a fuel
pressure testing tool (for autos). This unit has a special "quick
disconnect" coupler, designed for use with auto fuels. The coupler is
similar to the quick couplers used on shop air hoses.
I think for folks who own trucks or cars with large fuel tanks that
the following would work and be more convenient. It would also
prevent hassles from the landlord and fire marshal. Install a Tee
fitting into the fuel supply line under the hood of your vehicle,
using a quick disconnect coupling. Fabricate a fueling hose with the
matching quick coupling which will be long enough to reach from the
car to your RV's fuel tank. Locate the fuel pump relay on your
vehicle. Wire a toggle switch (locate the switch on your dash or
under the hood) which will allow you to manually close the fuel pump
relay. This will allow the vehicle's "in tank" electric fuel pump to
run without the vehicle's engine running. This will allow you to pump
fuel from your car or truck's fuel tank directly into your RV.
This fuel would be less likely to get contaminated by debris, as
can happen when using fueling cans. The fuel goes from your truck's
fuel tank, through it's fuel filter and directly into your RV's fuel tank.
An even simpler system would be to purchase the needed adapter
fitting for one of these fuel pressure testers for your truck or car.
This assumes your vehicle has multi-port (ie an injector for every
cylinder) fuel injection. GM and Ford products use a Schrader port
(similar to your tires and A/C fittings) to attach the fuel pressure
testers. This really simplifies the equipment needed. There is a
downside to this method. The Schrader port on the vehicle's fuel rail
is small. It takes about 15 -30 minutes to fill your RV tanks using
this restricted access port. This port is easily accessed. It is
found on the engine near one of the fuel injectors.
Stop and fill your vehicle's fuel tank(s) on your way to the
airport. Pull your RV out of it's hanger and position your car or
truck near the wing tank (engine off). Connect your fueling hose to
the vehicle. Install a ground wire between the vehicles. Turn on the
manual fuel pump and start fueling. When finished, reposition your
truck and repeat for the other wing tank. Shutting the control valve
on the fueling hose will not hurt your truck's electric fuel pump.
The fuel pressure regulator on the truck's engine will divert the
excess pressure and fuel back to the vehicle's fuel tank.
FYI, Matco, Mac Tools and Snap On Tools make the fuel pressure tester
I'm referring to. They sell individual components, as well as the
entire tool. A quick check of McMaster-Carr's web site located
several SS couplers suitable for gasoline. I just did a quick check.
These first couplers I found are on page 166, 261 of their web site
below. I'm sure there are more suitable ones available.
www.mcmaster.com
Just my idea and worth what you paid for it.
Charlie Kuss
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