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cv93436(at)windstream.net
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 Posted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 8:12 am Post subject: Nose Cowling Heat Shields |
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RV-10 Builders:
If you do not shield the lower engine cowling, it will warp and turn brown from the heat produced by the exhaust system.
A permanent fix is to mount a sheet of .025 or .032 aluminum with the same contour of the cowling over the area of the cowling where it gets hot from the exhaust (about 6 in. forward of the exhaust pipes up front and back to where the mufflers end). Place 3 or 4 #6 thick washers between the heat shield and the Lexan at the top edge of the aluminum and rivet it to the Lexan with countersunk rivents on the outside. It will take 3 or 4 rivets on each side of the cowling. Shape the aluminum sheet so it is parallel to the Lexan leaving a 1/4" space between the Lexan and aluminum sheet (an air space). Rivet the lower edge of the aluminum sheet to the bottom edge of the Lexan with counter sunk rivets. You will not need spacer washers on the bottom edge.
This is as light in weight as the adhesive aluminum reflector and will last forever with better heat protection.
Carroll
RV-10 41087 N123CV
[quote][b]
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Jim Berry
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 237
Location: Denver
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| Posted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 9:58 am Post subject: Re: Nose Cowling Heat Shields |
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This makes no sense to me. My -10 has no Lexan in the cowl or elsewhere. Also can't imagine a Lexan and alum. sandwich being lighter than the adhesive alum. foil. What am I missing?
Jim Berry
RV-10
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Bajajim
Joined: 21 Aug 2012
Posts: 30
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| Posted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 1:04 pm Post subject: Nose Cowling Heat Shields |
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The aluminum tape we use for exhaust vents on stoves works GREAT.
Its meant for High Heat Ventilation systems
I have used it on my 10 for 143 hours no problem.
The interior was "Browning" before I applied the tape.
No problems since.
I think the tape number is "704"...
If my aging memory serves me correctly...
Jim Villani
Kit# 41084
Jim(at)JimVillani.com
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