budyerly(at)msn.com
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 Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 8:20 am Post subject: Europa-List: Re: Europa-List: Re: Europa-List: Instrument Pa |
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<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]--> Jeremy, Tony and all,
I have tried the pivot out panels in RVs and Europas and frankly the system works, however the length of todays instruments always seem to prevent the tilt out from being satisfactory. A slide out panel or whole panel is much more convenient. I prefer to build the panel so that when the outer support screws on the panel edge are unscrewed, the entire panel shell is free to detach as a unit. Of course I have a through the firewall access panel that I learned from Pete and Bob at Flight Crafters and further refined the screw pattern, metal selection, attachments, and sealing technique to assure a fire resistant and fully sealed panel. I fully understand those who prefer not to put an access hole in the panel for fear of fire/smoke incursion and the sealing that is necessary to prevent such a problem. If you don't want to learn to do it, I understand. .060 aluminum and .016 stainless, and some high temp sealant is what is needed form material, and a good steady hand with a diamond wheel on a dremel to cut the hole so the phenolic panel has minimum gap. Rivet the stainless to the cut panel after fit and it is a door ready to go.
The back of the panel is equipped with CPC screw type plugs and D subs as appropriate. The cowl and access cover take longer to detach than the instrument panel.
Typically the panel is ten screws, 4 D subs and three CPC circular connectors, and the quick disconnect pitot and static. The whole panel comes out and on to the bench for upgrades and testing. I have never found a reason to open my panel and just look. If it's broke, you built it so fix it. During an annual inspection, I routinely pull my panel and check my busses, through panel mounts and wire bundles for any upgrades I would like. It makes experimenting and maintenance of components a breeze.
The trick is making sure the brakes, throttle etc. do not need to be removed. The high top fuselage has just enough height that the panel can be lifted over the brakes, throttle etc. in a trigear or mono. In a low top, I can unscrew six screws and drop my throttle and brake handles down to easily clear the panel. We have it down pat when removing, just pull aft an inch to check you didn't accidently leave a plug attached, then pull the panel back four inches, rotate the panel left side back and down to clear the canopy bow and remove. Carry to the bench and work. Make some extension plugs and put the panel on the bench next to the plane and troubleshoot away.
Should one component fail such as the prop controller or autopilot, I can see the desire to pull out the front and then reach around and try to disconnect the D sub connector from the front, but in practice, I just found it not worth the time. Pull the firewall access panel and unplug and pull the whole thing out. Less of a chance of breaking wires and more convenience for me. I also don' t have to deal with excessively long and tediously folded service loops to work the panel. In the RV series I have found that the pull out on drawer slides to be quite nice as the bottom of the panel is open to allow you to work the service loops. I still hate to crawl into the RV8 and lay upside down to work on something. I am too stiff for that sort of thing, so I make the whole panel to pull. I have done it in two RVs, a Zenith and all the Europas I have built.
Regards,
Bud
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