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uuccio(at)gmail.com
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 Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 12:12 pm Post subject: header tank does not stay full - installing a fitting at the |
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Today I went to take a look at my tanks but I realized that (unlike Guys’) mine are made of plastic, not fiberglass. They are quite thin (the fuel level can be seen through the tank so a couple of mm max) so that I would need to glue something on the outside in order to drill a hole and cut threads in it. But gluing on plastic is bound to be problematic; I’m not sure what plastic it is, it is slightly “greasy” to the touch, maybe poly-propylene/ethylene.
Does anyone have any experience with this? Can anyone recommend a product that they have used?
I was thinking, as an alternative to drilling a hole in the tank for a return breather line, if I could find some kind of valve that lets air out but not fuel (e.g. like they have on breather lines for boats), I could just fit one of those to the header tank and be done with it.
Sacha
From: Guy Buchanan [mailto:gebuchanan(at)cox.net]
Sent: Saturday, 28 September, 2013 05:35
To: Sacha
Subject: Re: header tank does not stay full - installing a fitting at the top of the wing tank
Brass fittings, pipe threads, no backing. You can do 1/4 to 1/8 pipe adapter and screw the 1/8 pipe fitting into that but you must be very careful cutting the 1/4 threads. It's easy to pop your G-10 plate off. Otherwise just cut 1/8 pipe threads in the G-10 and screw your fitting right into it. (It depends on whether you think you'll ever have to remove the fitting for maintenance. If not, go right into the tank. If you have to do regular maintenance, use the adapter.) I glued the plates with the 3500 psi acrylic adhesive you find at the hardware store. If you still have any Hysol laying around that would be better. (Used on the wing ribs.) The pipe fittings I sealed with the 2-part polysulfide sealant available from Aircraft Spruce. Expensive as hell but it's the only stuff I ever got to work with 100LL.
Guy
On 9/27/2013 7:33 PM, Sacha wrote: | Quote: | | GuyThanks for the pics. I have a question about the fittings. I assume they are made of bronze and you've screwed them into the tank. Is there a locking nut on the inside of the tank (if so, how did you access it?) and what did you use as glue/bond for the fitting. |
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7suds(at)Chartermi.net
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| Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 4:54 pm Post subject: header tank does not stay full - installing a fitting at the |
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Sacha,
Is there any way you might be able to use a bulkhead fitting with seals on both sides? You could run a wire through the hole you drill out the filler hole on top so you could slide the seal and washer down the wire in order to line it up with and get it started on the bulkhead fitting.
Just some food for thought.
lloyd
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sacha
Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2013 3:12 PM
To: Kitfox List
Subject: RE: header tank does not stay full - installing a fitting at the top of the wing tank
Today I went to take a look at my tanks but I realized that (unlike Guys’) mine are made of plastic, not fiberglass. They are quite thin (the fuel level can be seen through the tank so a couple of mm max) so that I would need to glue something on the outside in order to drill a hole and cut threads in it. But gluing on plastic is bound to be problematic; I’m not sure what plastic it is, it is slightly “greasy” to the touch, maybe poly-propylene/ethylene.
Does anyone have any experience with this? Can anyone recommend a product that they have used?
I was thinking, as an alternative to drilling a hole in the tank for a return breather line, if I could find some kind of valve that lets air out but not fuel (e.g. like they have on breather lines for boats), I could just fit one of those to the header tank and be done with it.
Sacha
From: Guy Buchanan [mailto:gebuchanan(at)cox.net (gebuchanan(at)cox.net)]
Sent: Saturday, 28 September, 2013 05:35
To: Sacha
Subject: Re: header tank does not stay full - installing a fitting at the top of the wing tank
Brass fittings, pipe threads, no backing. You can do 1/4 to 1/8 pipe adapter and screw the 1/8 pipe fitting into that but you must be very careful cutting the 1/4 threads. It's easy to pop your G-10 plate off. Otherwise just cut 1/8 pipe threads in the G-10 and screw your fitting right into it. (It depends on whether you think you'll ever have to remove the fitting for maintenance. If not, go right into the tank. If you have to do regular maintenance, use the adapter.) I glued the plates with the 3500 psi acrylic adhesive you find at the hardware store. If you still have any Hysol laying around that would be better. (Used on the wing ribs.) The pipe fittings I sealed with the 2-part polysulfide sealant available from Aircraft Spruce. Expensive as hell but it's the only stuff I ever got to work with 100LL.
Guy
On 9/27/2013 7:33 PM, Sacha wrote: | Quote: | | GuyThanks for the pics. I have a question about the fittings. I assume they are made of bronze and you've screwed them into the tank. Is there a locking nut on the inside of the tank (if so, how did you access it?) and what did you use as glue/bond for the fitting. |
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10/03/13
[quote][b]
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uuccio(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 6:53 pm Post subject: header tank does not stay full - installing a fitting at the |
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Lloyd
That's a good idea. Trouble is the filer cap is about 8 inches from the side of the tank. I'm not confident I can get a spanner down there to screw the locking nut in place. If I give it a try then I might get stuck with a hole in my tank. So I really need to find out if there's a way to glue this stuff. The only way I'm aware of is using heat, which is not ideal due to the presence of gasoline. But maybe there are done adhesives or resins which might work? I have no idea.
Sacha
On Oct 4, 2013, at 2:53, "Lloyd & Lorrie Cudnohufsky" <7suds(at)Chartermi.net (7suds(at)Chartermi.net)> wrote:
[quote] <![endif]--> <![endif]-->
Sacha,
Is there any way you might be able to use a bulkhead fitting with seals on both sides? You could run a wire through the hole you drill out the filler hole on top so you could slide the seal and washer down the wire in order to line it up with and get it started on the bulkhead fitting.
Just some food for thought.
lloyd
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Sacha
Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2013 3:12 PM
To: Kitfox List
Subject: RE: header tank does not stay full - installing a fitting at the top of the wing tank
Today I went to take a look at my tanks but I realized that (unlike Guys’) mine are made of plastic, not fiberglass. They are quite thin (the fuel level can be seen through the tank so a couple of mm max) so that I would need to glue something on the outside in order to drill a hole and cut threads in it. But gluing on plastic is bound to be problematic; I’m not sure what plastic it is, it is slightly “greasy” to the touch, maybe poly-propylene/ethylene.
Does anyone have any experience with this? Can anyone recommend a product that they have used?
I was thinking, as an alternative to drilling a hole in the tank for a return breather line, if I could find some kind of valve that lets air out but not fuel (e.g. like they have on breather lines for boats), I could just fit one of those to the header tank and be done with it.
Sacha
From: Guy Buchanan [mailto:gebuchanan(at)cox.net (gebuchanan(at)cox.net)]
Sent: Saturday, 28 September, 2013 05:35
To: Sacha
Subject: Re: header tank does not stay full - installing a fitting at the top of the wing tank
Brass fittings, pipe threads, no backing. You can do 1/4 to 1/8 pipe adapter and screw the 1/8 pipe fitting into that but you must be very careful cutting the 1/4 threads. It's easy to pop your G-10 plate off. Otherwise just cut 1/8 pipe threads in the G-10 and screw your fitting right into it. (It depends on whether you think you'll ever have to remove the fitting for maintenance. If not, go right into the tank. If you have to do regular maintenance, use the adapter.) I glued the plates with the 3500 psi acrylic adhesive you find at the hardware store. If you still have any Hysol laying around that would be better. (Used on the wing ribs.) The pipe fittings I sealed with the 2-part polysulfide sealant available from Aircraft Spruce. Expensive as hell but it's the only stuff I ever got to work with 100LL.
Guy
On 9/27/2013 7:33 PM, Sacha wrote: | Quote: | | GuyThanks for the pics. I have a question about the fittings. I assume they are made of bronze and you've screwed them into the tank. Is there a locking nut on the inside of the tank (if so, how did you access it?) and what did you use as glue/bond for the fitting. |
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10/03/13
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