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nose gear questions

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sperry50(at)comcast.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 6:08 pm Post subject: nose gear questions

Strangely enough, I am also at that point. I have put everything together and when I check the freedom of the nose strut it is very free until I put the bungee on. It then becomes almost impossible to move. I do not have the engine hung yet and I assume with that weight some of the friction with the top stop plate will be eliminated things will be freed up??? Do any of you have suggestions on this?  

   

Skip Perry – 601XL  

   

DO NOT ARCHIVE  

   

--

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craig(at)craigandjean.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 6:54 pm Post subject: nose gear questions

> It then becomes almost impossible  to move.

  

 Is the hole in the upper "shelf" slightly larger than the  hole in the upper bearing? In other words does the nose tube ride on the nyloil  (as it should) or the aluminum? Also is your nose gear tube painted where  it rubs on the upper and lower bearings? That can also add a lot of friction.  And (as I mentioned in my last post) is there a gap between the horizontal  bungee "pin" and the nose gear tube? There should be. It is hard to get to but  try slipping a piece of paper between the two to check for a  gap.

  

 -- Craig

[quote] [b]

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DaveG601XL

Joined: 27 Oct 2006
Posts: 351
Location: Cincinnati, Oh

Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 3:26 am Post subject: Re: nose gear questions

On both my nose gear and one other builder's in my area, the top stop plate hits the top bearing well before the bottom cross member hits the lower bearing.  I believe it is supposed to hit the lower bearing first since this has the centering feature.  We both had to add shims between the stop plate and the gear strut.  I added just enough to make them hit almost at the same time.  Longer bolts also need to be added to make up for the extra grip length.

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_________________
David Gallagher
Cincinnati, OH area

larry(at)macsmachine.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 5:12 am Post subject: nose gear questions

Hi Skip,

If the strut is free before you put the bungee on it would seem that 

you're o.k. The bungee is a serious force that only engine weight will 

counteract.

If you have added plastic bearings, there is little chance that binding 

would occur. Earlier plans without bearing plastic did have problems 

with binding,

but I assume you've got the bearing material in place. If you didn't, 

you'd have a bigger problem to deal with.

The paint will eventually wear off and any uneven pull thru on the 

plates will smooth out once you've got the engine in place.



Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com



Skip Perry wrote:

[quote]

 Strangely enough, I am also at that point. I have put everything 

 together and when I check the freedom of the nose strut it is very 

 free _until_ I put the bungee on. It then becomes almost impossible to 

 move. I do not have the engine hung yet and I assume with that weight 

 some of the friction with the top stop plate will be eliminated things 

 will be freed up??? Do any of you have suggestions on this?



 Skip Perry – 601XL



 DO NOT ARCHIVE



 --

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dredmoody(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 10:29 am Post subject: nose gear questions

Skip, it better work right without any weight on it because that's how it will be inflight. Whatever the problem, it needs to be worked out now.



Dred



---- Skip Perry <sperry50(at)comcast.net> wrote: 

[quote] Strangely enough, I am also at that point. I have put everything together

 and when I check the freedom of the nose strut it is very free until I put

 the bungee on. It then becomes almost impossible to move. I do not have the

 engine hung yet and I assume with that weight some of the friction with the

 top stop plate will be eliminated things will be freed up??? Do any of you

 have suggestions on this?

 

  

 

 Skip Perry - 601XL

 

  

 

 DO NOT ARCHIVE

 

  

 

 --

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rickpitcher

Joined: 27 Feb 2007
Posts: 76

Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 11:21 am Post subject: nose gear questions

---

> --> Zenith-List message posted by: <dredmoody(at)cox.net>

>

> Skip, it better work right without any weight on it because that's how it 

> will be inflight. Whatever the problem, it needs to be worked out now.

>

> Dred



I was worried about the same thing when I assembled my nose gear. It turned 

out to be a non-issue. By the time I made a couple of taxi tests everything 

smoothed out nicely. Just needed some exercising.



Rick

scratch built zodiac... flying and happy

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JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 5:18 pm Post subject: nose gear questions

Skip, a couple points. Check the clearance at the top aluminum cross brace that the shaft goes throuh. The one above the green plastic fairlead bushing plate. I found on mine they were not aligned exactly right and had to file a bit off the metal. Second thing is I primed and pained the steel ( I guess so it would not rust ??? ) All that had to come off to allow travel. Last the long bolts at the bottom that hold the bottom plastic blocks together were too tight. I also added a generous application of grease. Once all these corrections and adjustments were made the shaft moved up and down and side to side with no problem. Best regards, Bill of Georgia

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