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Strobe switch problem

 
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chasb(at)satx.rr.com
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 1:53 pm    Post subject: Strobe switch problem Reply with quote

Fellow RVers,

My strobe system blew its fuse. Replaced, the fuse blew again when
the Master Power was turned on with the strobe switch OFF.
Investigation found the switch shorted internally and the fast on
connectors charred from heat. The switch was a B&C 700 series 1-3
toggle operating a 12v Whelen single pack strobe system.

I put the above info on the AeroElectric list. It turns out switch
failures on Whelen Strobe systems is fairly common. There were
several cases where the switch had not failed, but the fast on
contacts were blackened from heat. Bob Nuckolls is investigating just
why a strobe system would cause switch failures and switch heating
with reasonable 12 v amperages.

I would like to recommend that every RV owner with a strobe system,
check the strobe ON-OFF switch for signs of over heating.

Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio


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pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 3:08 pm    Post subject: Strobe switch problem Reply with quote

Bob knows far more than I do, but from this side of the computer I think
the inrush current for a single supply system must be higher than the
switch likes. How many hours are we talking here??? What size fuse???
There may be a clue there.
Linn ..... just musing
do not archive
Charles Brame wrote:
Quote:


Fellow RVers,

My strobe system blew its fuse. Replaced, the fuse blew again when the
Master Power was turned on with the strobe switch OFF. Investigation
found the switch shorted internally and the fast on connectors charred
from heat. The switch was a B&C 700 series 1-3 toggle operating a 12v
Whelen single pack strobe system.

I put the above info on the AeroElectric list. It turns out switch
failures on Whelen Strobe systems is fairly common. There were several
cases where the switch had not failed, but the fast on contacts were
blackened from heat. Bob Nuckolls is investigating just why a strobe
system would cause switch failures and switch heating with reasonable
12 v amperages.

I would like to recommend that every RV owner with a strobe system,
check the strobe ON-OFF switch for signs of over heating.

Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio



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Vanremog(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 4:10 pm    Post subject: Strobe switch problem Reply with quote

In a message dated 9/6/2008 2:54:06 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, chasb(at)satx.rr.com writes:
Quote:
My strobe system blew its fuse. Replaced, the fuse blew again when
the Master Power was turned on with the strobe switch OFF.
Investigation found the switch shorted internally and the fast on
connectors charred from heat. The switch was a B&C 700 series 1-3
toggle operating a 12v Whelen single pack strobe system.

I put the above info on the AeroElectric list. It turns out switch
failures on Whelen Strobe systems is fairly common. There were
several cases where the switch had not failed, but the fast on
contacts were blackened from heat. Bob Nuckolls is investigating just
why a strobe system would cause switch failures and switch heating
with reasonable 12 v amperages.

I would like to recommend that every RV owner with a strobe system,
check the strobe ON-OFF switch for signs of over heating.


===================================

Odd. I am using a Carlingswitch DPST rocker switch to run three Whelen single strobe Power Supplies triggered together for wing tip and tail coverage. I have seen no such situation with this combination and I run them every time I fly, day and night.
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 900hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)


Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com.
[quote][b]


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bicyclop(at)pacbell.net
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 10:13 pm    Post subject: Strobe switch problem Reply with quote

If the inrush current is the culprit, I may be doing exactly the right
thing to mitigate it, although for another reason entirely. I just leave
the strobe switch on so that when I turn on the master, pre-engine
start, anybody around can see that it is a live airplane and liable to
spin a prop. The contactor deals with whatever inrush current there may
be. Harder to walk away from a plane with strobe flashing, too. It helps
me remember to turn off the master.

Pax,

Ed Holyoke

linn Walters wrote:
Quote:


Bob knows far more than I do, but from this side of the computer I
think the inrush current for a single supply system must be higher
than the switch likes. How many hours are we talking here??? What
size fuse??? There may be a clue there.
Linn ..... just musing
do not archive
Charles Brame wrote:
>
>
> Fellow RVers,
>
> My strobe system blew its fuse. Replaced, the fuse blew again when
> the Master Power was turned on with the strobe switch OFF.
> Investigation found the switch shorted internally and the fast on
> connectors charred from heat. The switch was a B&C 700 series 1-3
> toggle operating a 12v Whelen single pack strobe system.
>
> I put the above info on the AeroElectric list. It turns out switch
> failures on Whelen Strobe systems is fairly common. There were
> several cases where the switch had not failed, but the fast on
> contacts were blackened from heat. Bob Nuckolls is investigating just
> why a strobe system would cause switch failures and switch heating
> with reasonable 12 v amperages.
>
> I would like to recommend that every RV owner with a strobe system,
> check the strobe ON-OFF switch for signs of over heating.
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>




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chasb(at)satx.rr.com
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2008 12:03 am    Post subject: Strobe switch problem Reply with quote

In my case, the strobe system had less than 50 hours of intermittent
use when it blew a 10 amp fuse. Some of the others also blew fuses.
But, in several other situations, the fuse/circuit breaker never
blew, but the switch showed signs of overheating. Bob, and others,
are hypothesizing that the strobe system cycles cause repeated inrush
currents that don't blow the fuse, but which produce overheating of
the switch. The overheating sometimes results in the switch shorting
out which does blow the fuse. All of the failed switches so far are
Carling 700 series switches. A more robust switch seems to be the
short term fix.

Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio

-----------------------------------------------------

Time: 04:08:17 PM PST US
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Strobe switch problem
Bob knows far more than I do, but from this side of the computer I think
the inrush current for a single supply system must be higher than the
switch likes. How many hours are we talking here??? What size fuse???
There may be a clue there.
Linn ..... just musing
do not archive


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pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2008 1:51 am    Post subject: Strobe switch problem Reply with quote

Charles Brame wrote:
Quote:


In my case, the strobe system had less than 50 hours of intermittent
use when it blew a 10 amp fuse. Some of the others also blew fuses.
But, in several other situations, the fuse/circuit breaker never blew,
but the switch showed signs of overheating. Bob, and others, are
hypothesizing that the strobe system cycles cause repeated inrush
currents that don't blow the fuse, but which produce overheating of
the switch. The overheating sometimes results in the switch shorting
out which does blow the fuse.
This is really odd! The switch is designed to short ......

Quote:
All of the failed switches so far are Carling 700 series switches.
I googles 'carling 700 switch' and got:

Rotary /switch Carling/ Technologies. /700/-Series: four position single
pole rotary /switch/; 1 to 4 amp, 125 to 250VAC; self-cleaning wiping
contacts; *...

*Which confuses me more since this isn't really a rotary switch
application ..... what am I missing??? And it's only rated at 4 amp.
AC though. I never knew exactly why, but AC rated switches aren't
supposed to work as good in a DC environment.
Quote:
A more robust switch seems to be the short term fix.
If we're really talking about the same switch, I agree.

Linn
do not archive
Quote:

Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio

-----------------------------------------------------

Time: 04:08:17 PM PST US
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Strobe switch problem
Bob knows far more than I do, but from this side of the computer I think
the inrush current for a single supply system must be higher than the
switch likes. How many hours are we talking here??? What size fuse???
There may be a clue there.
Linn ..... just musing
do not archive


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chasb(at)satx.rr.com
Guest





PostPosted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 9:18 am    Post subject: Strobe switch problem Reply with quote

You are right. None of the Carling Technologies site toggle switches
have the S700 designation.

My switch was purchased from B&C Specialty Products and was not
listed as a Carling product. See: http://www.bandcspecialty.com/
However, The AeroElectric Connection in several places has refered to
the S700 series switch (a 7+ amp, 125 to 250 VAC, toggle switch) as a
Carling product. Several of the individuals that have had strobe
system switch problems also referred to Carling toggle switches. I
think Carling was stamped on the side of my shorted out switch, but I
can't confirm that as the switch is no longer available.

For a description of a similar switch failure, See: http://
www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Anatomy_of_a_Switch_Failure/
Anatomy_of_a_Switch_Failure.html

Bob Nuckolls has recommended a more robust toggle switch for my
system, the Honeywell 11TS95.

Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio

Do Not Archive

--------------------------------------------------------------

Time: 02:51:17 AM PST US
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Strobe switch problem
Quote:

This is really odd! The switch is designed to short ......


Quote:
All of the failed switches so far are Carling 700 series switches.

I googles 'carling 700 switch' and got:

Rotary /switch Carling/ Technologies. /700/-Series: four position single
pole rotary /switch/; 1 to 4 amp, 125 to 250VAC; self-cleaning wiping
contacts; *...

*Which confuses me more since this isn't really a rotary switch
application ..... what am I missing??? And it's only rated at 4 amp.
AC though. I never knew exactly why, but AC rated switches aren't
supposed to work as good in a DC environment.

Quote:
A more robust switch seems to be the short term fix.

If we're really talking about the same switch, I agree.

Linn
do not archive

Quote:

Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio



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