rparigor(at)SUFFOLK.LIB.N
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 Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 1:23 pm Post subject: Anything wrong with using a plier style crimper? |
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Hi BobThx. for the information you sent.I have been fooling with borrowed crimpers since your reply E-mail, some cheap, some not so cheap, and although I can get a semi OK crimp on #22 wire, I just wasn't happy. That's until just now. A local guy turned up at the airport and had an Amp 59250 tool that he purchased used off of E-Bay. It appears to be the exact same tool as you depict as "high priced tool" in:http://aeroelectric.com/articles/CrimpTools/crimptools.htmlIt works great on a single #22! Easy to use. End of story, I can borrow anytime I need. The reason it works better is the die is very well thought out where it contains the terminal from growing too wide. The other tools work OK on #20 wire, but the 59250 works well on both.Ron Parigoris>>I rounded up some ratcheting style crimping tools from airport folk >>and a homebuilder for crimping Red crimp on connectors from Stein >>(fast on and ring). >> >>Got hold of a Paladin tool with several sets of dies, and some no >>name non adjustable tool. >> >>The die sets for the Paladine: >>****Part number said for insulated terminals and had 3 colored dots >>including red >>****There was a set of dies with no part number but fit tool >>(perhaps from Stein??) and looked like for insulated terminals >>And a few others, one for uninsulated terminals and other >> >>First off no matter what the adjustment, if using 22 gauge wire, >>even with the dies completely bottomed, could not get as much a grip >>as i would like. I could semi make it better by splicing more wire >>and doubling it over to better fill hole. Problem was it still did >>not crimp wire terrific and the portion that was to crimp on the >>insulation for strain relief was too far away (too wide a die?) >>where it was only partially catching the metal in the terminals. All >>the terminals from Stein and Terminal Town and Mcmaster (double >>metal) appeared to be too short for tool. I tried all the dies I had >>and combinations. Not great success with the no name tool with fixed >>dies and is non adjustable. >> >>I could get an OK crimp, probably will work and with heat shrink >>support will probably be OK, but insulation was not captured >>properly and if i sliced open the crimp on the wire, you could see >>it is not as compact as would be nice. >> >>Then I pulled out an old and rusty Whitaker WC2850 tool, looks like >>a pair of pliers with several dies on it. >> >>After some practice I can make what I think is a very nice crimp, >>far better than what I could do with the other tools. >> >>*First I stripped twice what I need and double up tail to go into >> terminal >>*Then crimp with RARB die about 1/16" from the edge of terminal >>*Then use a part of tool called "A" which is kind of a half cylinder >>(feel here is important) and put a dimple on top of terminal where I >>just crimped. I tried to over crimp this step and if I go crazy >>where terminal in stead of being straight begins to bend, I can tear >>wire when pulled very hard because wire is mashed too much. I am >>pretty confident can repeat this dimple consistently. When I sliced >>practice terminals apart had a very compacted crimp without strands >>being deformed/mashed. Without dimple, crimp is acceptable in my >>mind for automobiles only, and places easy to get at with no moisture >> present. >>*Then use RARB to crimp wire insulation about 1/16" from edge, no >>hurting of insulation at all and wire is held pretty good. >> >>Anyone see any problems crimping like I describe? i could have >>stripped and crimped a dozen terminals in time it took me to write this. >> >>Ron Parigoris > > The physics for making a gas-tight connection between wire > and terminal is process-sensitive. The "ideal" crimped > junction puts sufficient force on the terminal to close > the cross-section of terminal and wire copper just to the > point that the terminal and wire strands become one piece > of metal. Too little mash, and voids in the joint allow > oxygen laden moisture to enter raising risk of failure > due to corrosion. Too much mash and strength of the > strands is weakened by reduction of cross-section thus > raising risk of failure under tension/vibration. See: > > http://aeroelectric.com/articles/CrimpTools/crimptools.html > > Dimple-crimps are for terminals going onto solid wire > only. See "Solistrand" terminals and tooling from AMP. > > You will note that all crimp tools suggested and/or > evaluated in our writing are free of "dimple" punches. > The PIDG style terminal is best applied with uniform > pressure offered by smooth bore dies. > > Of secondary concern is molding of the wire-grip to the > conductor just outside the joint. The terminal may have > too little volume in the closed condition for the amount > of plastic in the terminal's wire support insulation. > See: > > http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/JST_Samples_2.jpg > > These terminals were electrically okay when installed with > our favorite tools . . . but did not become part of our > inventory because we had no tools that would do a professional > looking installation. > > Ron, it's not possible to encourage or discourage use of the > tools you've cited without making a first-hand evaluation > of their performance under the guide-lines discussed in > the article above and these additional pieces found on > my website . . . > > http://aeroelectric.com/articles/faston3.pdf > > http://aeroelectric.com/articles/terminal.pdf > > Finally, on the subject of wire-joining, I'll remind > readers of this article published some years back > in Sport Aviation. The author didn't have a > clue about simple-ideas for the processes in > which he claimed considerable knowledged and skill. > > http://aeroelectric.com/articles/rules/review.html > > > Bob . . . [quote][b]
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