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Radio Shack 3 row 15 pin d-Sub

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rparigoris

Joined: 24 Nov 2009
Posts: 796

Posted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 8:14 am Post subject: Radio Shack 3 row 15 pin d-Sub

Hi group



I need to find a connector that will fit into the stick of my Europa. It ends up the 9 pin connector I was using doesn't work too well since it became obvious I need 10 pins.



Radio Shack sells a 15 pin what they call D-Sub connector with 3 rows and is the same size as the 9 pin D-sub that Bob depicts for use as a connector for Ray Allen pitch servos.



This is a solder pot bent sheet metal connector, but the pins are smaller in size compared to normal D-sub pins as I am familiar with.



The package has them rated for 5 amps for 1 minute at 600v AC.



The highest current carrying in the connector will be by the pitch servo.



I want to mutilate the connector like Bob depicts for pitch servo so it will fit in stick, then wrap it with silicone tape to keep it together.



Anyone see anything wrong with using this connector for this purpose?



BTW #26 wire goes to the male connector from the stick switches, and the female connector is connected to two #22 5 conductor Tefzel cables. The #22 wires fit the solder pots, but #20 wire may not.



Thx.

Ron Parigoris

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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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Posted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 10:40 am Post subject: Radio Shack 3 row 15 pin d-Sub

Radio Shack sells a 15 pin what they call D-Sub connector with 3 rows 

and is the same size as the 9 pin D-sub that Bob depicts for use as a 

connector for Ray Allen pitch servos.

  with.



   Yes, this is the "high density" version of the D-sub series connectors.

   They are becoming increasingly popular in GA radio designs.

   Garmin uses them a lot. The connector you're looking at is

   the same one used to bring VGA video out the back of

   your computer for the monitor.



The package has them rated for 5 amps for 1 minute at 600v AC.



The highest current carrying in the connector will be by the pitch servo.



I want to mutilate the connector like Bob depicts for pitch servo so 

it will fit in stick, then wrap it with silicone tape to keep it together.



Anyone see anything wrong with using this connector for this purpose?



    Why does it need to be inside the stick?

    Could you bring a pendant cable out of the

    stick to some convenient location where you

    can use a 25-pin connector with crimped pins?



BTW #26 wire goes to the male connector from the stick switches, and 

the female connector is connected to two #22 5 conductor Tefzel 

cables. The #22 wires fit the solder pots, but #20 wire may not.



    No, they won't. The HD series is limited to 22AWG

    or smaller.

   Bob . . .

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rparigoris

Joined: 24 Nov 2009
Posts: 796

Posted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 3:11 pm Post subject: Re: Radio Shack 3 row 15 pin d-Sub

Hi Bob



Thx. for the reply.



It seems you are insinuation to not use this 15 pin connector.



What is your reasons to not use this high density 15 pin connector?



"Why does it need to be inside the stick? 

Could you bring a pendant cable out of the 

stick to some convenient location where you 

can use a 25-pin connector with crimped pins?"



By having a connector inside the stick it would make for easy servicing of the switches "when" they get hurt.



The current routing of wires doesn't easily allow install of a D-sub. If you have a good reason to not use the high density 15 pin, I could arrange things where i could remove the stick to service switches.



Ron Parigoris

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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
Guest

Posted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 3:32 pm Post subject: Radio Shack 3 row 15 pin d-Sub

 	  Quote: 	
		  The current routing of wires doesn't easily allow install of a 

D-sub. If you have a good reason to not use the high density 15 pin, 

I could arrange things where i could remove the stick to service switches.


	


    Give it a try. They're not "evil" . . . just

    challenging. I don't fiddle with the solder

    version of these connectors . . . like I don't

    hand-solder 0805 surface mount parts either.

   Bob . . .

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rparigoris

Joined: 24 Nov 2009
Posts: 796

Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 8:54 am Post subject: Re: Radio Shack 3 row 15 pin d-Sub

After cutting off the ears, soldering the cases together and installing the wires, it seems these connectors will do the trick while living inside my control stick:



http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=83510



http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=83516



http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=84258



Ron Parigoris

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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
Guest

Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 12:20 pm Post subject: Radio Shack 3 row 15 pin d-Sub

At 11:54 AM 10/6/2010, you wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  

<rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>



After cutting off the ears, soldering the cases together and 

installing the wires, it seems these connectors will do the trick 

while living inside my control stick:



http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=83510



http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=83516



http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=84258


	


   Nice work my friend. I've captured your pictures and

   plan to add them to the earlier article I published

   on modified connectors. Thanks for sharing.



   Bob . . .

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rparigoris

Joined: 24 Nov 2009
Posts: 796

Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 1:08 pm Post subject: Re: Radio Shack 3 row 15 pin d-Sub

Hi Bob



Thx. again for your advice.



I will share two other connector mods, your ides perhaps with a twist or two.



I needed to exit out of a 50 pin machined gold plated D-sub connector. There are slim pickings for 50 pin covers no less something small, light and user friendly (ability to tighten aft screw). I modified this connector using a thin stainless tube (McMaster Carr) JB KWIKed to the side of the cover to allow tightening of the aft stainless screw (heat shrink protection where wires will rest). I used stainless cap screws from McMaster with a patch of adhesive on it. Kinda like using suspenders and a belt, I also added a #3 star washer (#3 fits #4 screw better IMHO), and a plastic thin washer underneath to hold the screw captive:



http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=82017



http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=82020



http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=82023



http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=82026



http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=82032



http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=82029



Another D-sub connector I made a trapezoid shaped bracket to use it as a bulkhead connector. As far as the cover, I had to thin a little so the stainless cap screw adhesive ended up being the perfect length. I used the thin plastic washers on the bottom to capture screw. I needed to turn the jackscrew standoffs a little to fit with bracket and plastic washer (aluminium hex) extra thickness:



http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=82280



http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=82283



http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=84179



Not quite sure if it falls in under a modification to a connector, but it is a modification to holding the wires that go to the connector. On my port lower panel insert there is not a real easy way to hold wires in place and allow install and removal. I am using a piece of carbon fiber with double heat shrink where it is trying to short the two legs of panel mount LEDs (CF conducts a little). Thus i am using the panel mount LEDs to stand off the piece of CF which I am tying wires to. I can't remember where i saw something similar, but pretty sure it was on Aeroelectric:



See Lower port insert wiring 1 thru 5 near the bottom of page:



http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=27305&g2_page=2



Ron Parigoris

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