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wdaniell(at)etb.net.co Guest
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davidjoyce(at)doctors.org Guest
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Posted: Fri May 13, 2011 9:02 am Post subject: Bus bar |
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William, Mine are brass bars pre-drilled to take bolts for ring terminals.
The positive one has a plastic cover over it. The system has worked well.
Unfortunately I can't remember where they came from! regards, David
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mau11(at)free.fr Guest
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alanb(at)dpy01.co.uk Guest
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Posted: Fri May 13, 2011 10:09 am Post subject: Bus bar |
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I bought some brass bar from the local DIY Store B&Q, in UK, drilled and tapped them myself.
Alan
On 13 May 2011, at 17:36, William Daniell wrote:
Quote: |
Can anyone send me a picture of their bus bar/advise me on the best option.
The ones that come with the Europa wiring kit seem to be plastic domestic
terminal blocks with one side (as it were) liked by wires/ring terminals
(Crimped not soldered ).
the wiring seems to me to add another point of failure whereas a straight
copper bar would eliminate this - indeed one of the crimped connections was
not crimped and I had to redo it.
Thanks
Will
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rparigoris
Joined: 24 Nov 2009 Posts: 797
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frans(at)privatepilots.nl Guest
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Posted: Fri May 13, 2011 3:07 pm Post subject: Bus bar |
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On 05/13/2011 06:36 PM, William Daniell wrote:
Quote: | Can anyone send me a picture of their bus bar/advise me on the best option.
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I just put a few bolts through the firewall. One bolt is connected to
ground, another to the 12 Volt power. On these bolts I can hook as many
ring terminals as I want, on the engine side as well as on the cabin
side. The amount of connections is only limited by the length of the
bolts. And the maximum current is determined by the diameter of the
bolt. An AN3 will transfer more than enough current.
It is simple, economic, fail proof, light weight, it solves the problem
to get the power through the firewall, etc.
Quote: | the wiring seems to me to add another point of failure whereas a straight
copper bar would eliminate this -
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A bolt is just as good as a bar. And to fix the bar you need two bolts
anyway.
Frans
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kingsnjan(at)westnet.com. Guest
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Posted: Fri May 13, 2011 5:22 pm Post subject: Bus bar |
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Will,
As with so many things in life nowadays, there are many alternatives.
I chose the Bussmann fuse block as depicted in the following link. This
unit
has its own bus bar (dual bus if required) that feeds up to 32 fuses. Mine
is the 20 fuse model. Only one wire needs to come through the firewall or
two if separate feeds are required for the dual bus.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Fuses_and_Current_Limiters/Bussman/15710_Fuse_Panel.pdf
I fitted mine as per the attached.
Cheers
Kingsley
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graeme bird
Joined: 15 Jul 2010 Posts: 434
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Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 3:14 am Post subject: Re: Bus bar |
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I did the same as Frans, used brass bolts through the firewall as the main star points, I fed 5 wires with ring ends through a hole from the instrument panel and connected on the bolts so I can easily remove the instrument panel. I had noisy and quiet power and return and alternator output. Really you want the battery to be the bus (but then my battery is in the FWFD). In the instrument panel again I wired to brass bolts on the ledge 2" from the bottom for ground star connections to low power instruments etc.
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_________________ Graeme Bird
kit4 (Wagstaff) TBD
Kit3 G-CLXU (Gregory) mono 914 xs Woodcomp
Kit2 G-PATS - (kesterton) Mono Classic 912 warpdrive
Kit 1 G-UMPY - Mono Classic/XS 912S, Woodcomp G(@)gdbmk.co.uk |
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bill mcclellan
Joined: 28 Jan 2010 Posts: 43
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Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 5:34 am Post subject: Bus bar |
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I am considering Vertical Power to simplify fusing and wiring. Has anyone used this system? http://www.verticalpower.com/
Bill McClellan
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wdaniell(at)etb.net.co Guest
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Posted: Mon May 16, 2011 8:12 am Post subject: Bus bar |
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Thanks to all for input
this wiring/instrument thing is pesky
Will
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