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Van's Tool Kits

 
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rv6lynch(at)embarqmail.co
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 5:31 am    Post subject: Van's Tool Kits Reply with quote

Ben.
We need to have a conversation. I have every thing you need. Call me (at)573 893 2291.

Bob Lynch
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jbeasley(at)nc.rr.com
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 5:31 am    Post subject: Van's Tool Kits Reply with quote

Ben,
I went through the tool kit research in February and decided to go with the Avery Kit-106. The kit components are very good quality and you can modify components as needed. I removed the 1001 22" Hand Rivet & Dimpling Tool, 10765 Dimpling Mallet, and the two technical manuals (already had them) and added the DRDT-2 Dimpling Tool. The Avery folks are very friendly and responsive. You'll need to add 3/32" Cleco's (500 total) and 1/8" Clecos (300 total), and I also recommend getting additional 1/2" and 1" side grip clecos as well.
Jonathan Beasley
#41236 – Tail Cone (Wings coming in July)
From: Ben Boatright <benboatright(at)gmail.com (benboatright(at)gmail.com)>
Reply-To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)>
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2011 08:46:55 -0400
To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)>
Subject: Van's Tool Kits

All,

I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month or so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've looked at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft Spruce, Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with regards to the kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be the "better" kit.

One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales tax).

I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide.

Thanks,
Ben

PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available or suggestions for where I might look.
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rleffler



Joined: 05 Nov 2006
Posts: 680

PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 5:43 am    Post subject: Van's Tool Kits Reply with quote

It's an exercise in futility..... All the major tool vendors have good kits

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 6:20 am    Post subject: Van's Tool Kits Reply with quote

Ben;
Time is money! If you are willing to take time building your tool kit it can be done for far less than any kit out there.
To start- my pneumatic drill (Sioux) Brown Tools
2x/3x recoilless riveter- ebay
Pneumatic squeezer- The Yard Store

All other tools was a combo of Brown and Yard Store. Brown gave me a discount for spending so much with them.

I built my arsenal for less than $1000. Every tool worked without an issue for the complete build. Chose ebay carefully and you’ll get great tools for a great price.

If you need new, find a vendor, call them and ask what you need for a RV-10.

Last comment- get a tungsten bar or steel, I never used any of the bucking bars, scrap steel bars worked great for me.
Pascal

From: Ben Boatright (benboatright(at)gmail.com)
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 5:46 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Van's Tool Kits


All,

I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month or so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've looked at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft Spruce, Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with regards to the kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be the "better" kit.

One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales tax).

I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide.

Thanks,
Ben

PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available or suggestions for where I might look.
[quote]

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Kellym



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1705
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 6:28 am    Post subject: Van's Tool Kits Reply with quote

Bob has summarized the high points. Another good kit is
fromhttp://www.planetools.com/Tool%20Kit.htm
With the majority of the riveting behind me, I would prefer to have both
a pneumatic squeezer and a good hand squeezer that can share dies and
yokes. There are places that the ability to slowly squeeze by hand is
preferable to the rapid squeezing of the pnuematic, and the physical
shape of the pneumatic makes access difficult.
Also consider having both a 3/8s air drill and a 1/4" air drill. The
smaller and lighter drill is nice for the more numerous rivet holes,
while you need the capacity of the 3/8" for drilling things like engine
mount holes in fire wall. For the 1/4" I have been very happy with
http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=7300R Chicago Pneumatic,
which has excellent trigger control, and is very light weight for those
days when you are match drilling a big skin with hundreds of holes.
Most of the good vendors will work with you to add/delete from their
kits to account for what you already have, what extras you want. Avery,
Cleaveland and Isham(Planetools) are top notch in service, etc. You will
find that you will add tools over time. There are some drill bits that
you only get 1, which you need throughout the project and 1 won't stay
sharp enough. (#19 and #12 for example). There will be certain drill
sizes that are only used a couple of times in the project, that a
complete numbered drill set from Harbor Freight is adequate to deal with.
If you want to minimize deburring and have nicer rivet holes, #41 and
#30 chucking reamers will do much nicer job than drill bits. (contrary
to the plans, #41 is a better fit for 3/32" rivets than #40).
Figure you will wind up spending at least 30% more than what the kit
costs, and if you are a tool junkie it could go to double the kit cost..
Have fun.
On 6/15/2011 6:40 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
Quote:
It's an exercise in futility..... All the major tool vendors have
good kits.

I've got tools from several of the vendors based upon getting to use
them in a builder's workshop.

As to which are best, it's going to be a personal opinion.

For example:

Drdt2 vs cframe
Pnuematic vs manual squeezed

Then there all all the other tools that aren't in the kits that make
your life easier in the build.

It just depends on how frugal you are or are do have to have the best
tools available.

ACS just resells Avery tools. You'll be happy with either the Avery
or cleaveland kits. With osh around the corner, there may be show
specials from the vendors.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 15, 2011, at 8:46 AM, Ben Boatright <benboatright(at)gmail.com
<mailto:benboatright(at)gmail.com>> wrote:

> All,
>
> I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month
> or so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've
> looked at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft
> Spruce, Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with
> regards to the kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be
> the "better" kit.
>
> One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce
> East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay
> sales tax).
>
> I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide.
>
> Thanks,
> Ben
>
> PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any
> available or suggestions for where I might look.
> *
>
> ===================================
> ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ===================================
> ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> ===================================
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
>
> *
*
*


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KCHD
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Kellym



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1705
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 6:40 am    Post subject: Van's Tool Kits Reply with quote

Two more good sources, Brown and Yard store. I wouldn't buy tools off
Ebay unless you really know what you are getting and who you are dealing
with. Warranty is important for the more expensive items. Refurbished is
fine for the expensive items, from reputable source. I had one tool
break, called Bob Avery...said he hadn't seen one break before, but he
would put a new one in the mail, and in a few days I had the replacement.
I would say once you have a tungsten bucking bar, you won't use any
others except where the tungsten won't fit or give correct angle.
Clecos....most are generic and okay, but for a few cents more, high
quality clecos are worth it. IIRC the ones I got from Avery were better
than most of the generic I have. Grip better, smoother action.
On 6/15/2011 7:15 AM, Pascal wrote:
Quote:
Ben;
Time is money! If you are willing to take time building your tool kit
it can be done for far less than any kit out there.
To start- my pneumatic drill (Sioux) Brown Tools
2x/3x recoilless riveter- ebay
Pneumatic squeezer- The Yard Store
All other tools was a combo of Brown and Yard Store. Brown gave me a
discount for spending so much with them.
I built my arsenal for less than $1000. Every tool worked without an
issue for the complete build. Chose ebay carefully and you’ll get
great tools for a great price.
If you need new, find a vendor, call them and ask what you need for a
RV-10.
Last comment- get a tungsten bar or steel, I never used any of the
bucking bars, scrap steel bars worked great for me.
Pascal
*From:* Ben Boatright <mailto:benboatright(at)gmail.com>
*Sent:* Wednesday, June 15, 2011 5:46 AM
*To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
*Subject:* Van's Tool Kits
All,

I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month
or so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've
looked at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft
Spruce, Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with
regards to the kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be
the "better" kit.

One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce
East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales
tax).

I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide.

Thanks,
Ben

PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available
or suggestions for where I might look.
*

href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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*
*
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KCHD
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pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 7:13 am    Post subject: Van's Tool Kits Reply with quote

I agree with everything Kelly said, particularly about buying used tools
from ebay. I bought a used Chicago Pneumatic squeezer for $300, but by the
time I paid to have it overhauled so it would work properly I could have
bought a new one.

I also agree completely about the tungsten bucking bar. It just makes
EVERYTHING easier. If I lost mine, I'd pay another $110 and would not buck
a single rivet until I had it replaced.

Jack Phillips
#40610 Wings (ailerons)
Raleigh, NC

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dlm34077(at)q.com
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 7:14 am    Post subject: Van's Tool Kits Reply with quote

I suggest picking one and then adding as you need; most will easily get you
through the tail kit. But to make your job easier, you will collect and even
make some special tools over the entire build. Having built two aircraft, a
Glastar and RV10, my tool boxes contain hand squeezes, C squeeze, A squeeze,
rivet guns, drill, drill press, hydraulic press, etc. just know that over
the life of the project you will either spend your time or your money. many
jobs that can be done with simple tools take an inordinate amount of time
compared to the right tool which works instantly with good results.

You will even have duplicate tools of selected varieties carried in the
baggage area when you fly, Since your aircraft may need fixing, an FBO may
or may not elect to maintain it, since they have no continued airworthiness
information for it.
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AV8ORJWC



Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 1149
Location: Aurora, Oregon "Home of VANS"

PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 8:17 am    Post subject: Van's Tool Kits Reply with quote

For the identical dimensional size, the mass is significantly greater, leading to reflected energy back into the rivet. The rivet complies much faster in those hard to reach areas. Repetitive shock impacts can lead to rivet cracking - from "work hardening".

When you can't get a squeeze into an area, a finger tungsten bar becomes magic.

John


From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Boatright
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 8:28 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Van's Tool Kits


Thanks to everyone for the info so far. It has been wonderful. I am curious (and keep in mind, I've never riveted before) about the tungsten bucking bar. What makes it so special?

Ben
J. Ben Boatright
-----
benboatright(at)gmail.com (benboatright(at)gmail.com)
-----
Member, AOPA and EAA

On Wed, Jun 15, 2011 at 11:06 AM, Jack Phillips <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net (pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net)> wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net (pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net)>

I agree with everything Kelly said, particularly about buying used tools
from ebay. I bought a used Chicago Pneumatic squeezer for $300, but by the
time I paid to have it overhauled so it would work properly I could have
bought a new one.

I also agree completely about the tungsten bucking bar. It just makes
EVERYTHING easier. If I lost mine, I'd pay another $110 and would not buck
a single rivet until I had it replaced.

Jack Phillips
#40610 Wings (ailerons)
Raleigh, NC

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 8:17 am    Post subject: Van's Tool Kits Reply with quote

weight!
I don’t own one, but the weight of steel gets hard on the arms after a while, with Tungsten you don’t need to exert much strength to hold the bar and hence makes for easier riveting.

From: Ben Boatright (benboatright(at)gmail.com)
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 8:28 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: Van's Tool Kits


Thanks to everyone for the info so far. It has been wonderful. I am curious (and keep in mind, I've never riveted before) about the tungsten bucking bar. What makes it so special?

Ben
J. Ben Boatright
-----
benboatright(at)gmail.com (benboatright(at)gmail.com)
-----
Member, AOPA and EAA


On Wed, Jun 15, 2011 at 11:06 AM, Jack Phillips <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net (pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net)> wrote:
[quote]--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net (pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net)>

I agree with everything Kelly said, particularly about buying used tools
from ebay. I bought a used Chicago Pneumatic squeezer for $300, but by the
time I paid to have it overhauled so it would work properly I could have
bought a new one.

I also agree completely about the tungsten bucking bar. It just makes
EVERYTHING easier. If I lost mine, I'd pay another $110 and would not buck
a single rivet until I had it replaced.

Jack Phillips
#40610 Wings (ailerons)
Raleigh, NC

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Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 8:26 am    Post subject: Van's Tool Kits Reply with quote

Density.... specific gravity (?). Whatever, Tungsten is much heavier
per cubic inch than steel. A small bar is as effective as a larger one
so it fits in small spaces, bucks easier etc.

Having said that, I didn't get one until 1/2 thru my project. It's
great. However, in easy to access areas, a lighter but bigger steel bar
can be nice. Less hand strain, easier to hold, etc.

The real 'danger' with any bar but especially the tungsten is when you
drop it and it hits the skin. Nasty. That's when a more easily gripped
bar can be nice.

Hope you have access to someone who can show you the basics of
riveting... not brain science but lot's of little tricks and just helps
to get some dual time.

Bill
On 6/15/2011 11:28 AM, Ben Boatright wrote:
Quote:
Thanks to everyone for the info so far. It has been wonderful. I am
curious (and keep in mind, I've never riveted before) about the
tungsten bucking bar. What makes it so special?

Ben

J. Ben Boatright


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rleffler



Joined: 05 Nov 2006
Posts: 680

PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 8:32 am    Post subject: Van's Tool Kits Reply with quote

It is more dense, which makes riveting easier. Most are also smaller in size. With the exception of a handful of rivets, I used my tungsten bar for everything. It's more expensive, but well worth it.
You are starting to see the rat hole tool buying can become......
Next will be:
Adjustable die holder and quick disconnects for you pneumatic squeezed
Quick bit changer replacing the chuck on your drill
Drdt2
Light weight air hoses
Pneumatic cleco gun
Digital torque wrench
The list goes on.......
It's an ailment that affects many an rv'er.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 15, 2011, at 11:28 AM, Ben Boatright <benboatright(at)gmail.com (benboatright(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

[quote]Thanks to everyone for the info so far. It has been wonderful. I am curious (and keep in mind, I've never riveted before) about the tungsten bucking bar. What makes it so special?

Ben
J. Ben Boatright
-----
[url=mailto:benboatright(at)gmail.com]benboatright(at)gmail.com (benboatright(at)gmail.com)[/url]
-----
Member, AOPA and EAA


On Wed, Jun 15, 2011 at 11:06 AM, Jack Phillips <[url=mailto:pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net]pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net (pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net)[/url]> wrote:
[quote] --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jack Phillips" <[url=mailto:pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net]pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net (pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net)[/url]>

I agree with everything Kelly said, particularly about buying used tools
from ebay. I bought a used Chicago Pneumatic squeezer for $300, but by the
time I paid to have it overhauled so it would work properly I could have
bought a new one.

I also agree completely about the tungsten bucking bar. It just makes
EVERYTHING easier. If I lost mine, I'd pay another $110 and would not buck
a single rivet until I had it replaced.

Jack Phillips
#40610 Wings (ailerons)
Raleigh, NC

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N410BL - Phase I
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 8:35 am    Post subject: Van's Tool Kits Reply with quote

Density and hardness. Tungsten’s density is 19.25 g/cm3 (Lead is 11.34 gm/cm3, and steel is 7.86 gm/cm3). More mass means greater ability to upset the rivet head with fewer blows from the rivet gun. With a 4X gun and my tungsten bar on a 3/32” rivet, I find it takes about 3 “taps” to fully set the rivet.

Jack Phillips


From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Boatright
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 11:28 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Van's Tool Kits


Thanks to everyone for the info so far. It has been wonderful. I am curious (and keep in mind, I've never riveted before) about the tungsten bucking bar. What makes it so special?

Ben
J. Ben Boatright
-----
benboatright(at)gmail.com (benboatright(at)gmail.com)
-----
Member, AOPA and EAA



On Wed, Jun 15, 2011 at 11:06 AM, Jack Phillips <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net (pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net)> wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net (pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net)>

I agree with everything Kelly said, particularly about buying used tools
from ebay. I bought a used Chicago Pneumatic squeezer for $300, but by the
time I paid to have it overhauled so it would work properly I could have
bought a new one.

I also agree completely about the tungsten bucking bar. It just makes
EVERYTHING easier. If I lost mine, I'd pay another $110 and would not buck
a single rivet until I had it replaced.

Jack Phillips
#40610 Wings (ailerons)
Raleigh, NC

--


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 2:17 pm    Post subject: Van's Tool Kits Reply with quote

I'm still working on my tail kit.
I bought a bunch of tools used off of vansairforce.com -- this was remarkably useful for getting random pieces of metal, unusual tools, and bucking bars dirt cheap.  Many of the tools I had no idea what to use for until I hit a problem and noticed "hey, I have something in my box which works great for this!"

My three favourite "non-standard" tools:
- Cleveland Main Squeeze.  Vastly superior to any other hand squeezer I've used -- it requires much less strength to set rivets, and I'm a wimp.  This also reduces the number of errors you'll have due to manhandling rivets.  (Personally, I tried both this and a pneumatic squeezer, and chose to spend my limited budget on this tool first.  If you have the money, buy both.)
- Tungsten bucking bar.  See what everyone else said.
- An MDF box to put the compressor in.  That darn thing is _loud_.  Building a box to put it in was a fun project, and also made working in my shop much more pleasant.


The tool which confuses me most:  a "dimpling hammer".  I've never figured out how this is any better than a standard $2 rubber mallet.  So that's what I use.
Chris
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Kelly McMullen



Joined: 16 Apr 2008
Posts: 1188
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 3:40 pm    Post subject: Van's Tool Kits Reply with quote

Time to revisit the compressor issue. Absolutely avoid an "oil-less" compressor. If you are building an RV-10 you can afford an oil bath compressor, that uses a separate belt driven motor. Get at least a 25 gal-30 gal tank. There is a good Husky model at Home Despot for under $400, or equivalent Kobalt model at Lowes. They are at least 10-15 db quieter than the oil-less variety.
If you still need quieter, you can enclose the compressor intake and exhaust, where most of the noise is located, or the whole motor/compressor combination, but plan for some cooling air as that compressor will get hot.

On Wed, Jun 15, 2011 at 3:10 PM, Chris Colohan <rv10(at)colohan.com (rv10(at)colohan.com)> wrote:
Quote:
 - An MDF box to put the compressor in.  That darn thing is _loud_.  Building a box to put it in was a fun project, and also made working in my shop much more pleasant.


 
Chris

 



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