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rv10rob(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 9:37 am Post subject: Leaking tanks |
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Resurrecting this thread... I had the same problem on my right quickbuild tank (leaking not at the outlet fitting, but rather the VA-141 part that the fitting screws into), which I wrote about here earlier. I ended up gooping a bunch of proseal around the fitting and finger strainer, and that stopped the leak... at the time. Now I have 100 hours on the airplane and it's leaking again.
Also, on the same tank, I'm always had a fuel vent leak. It must be leaking at the fuel vent line fitting inside the tank, because that part passes the pressure leak test and it only leaks fuel when the fuel level is above the vent fitting at the wing root. Also, I have confirmed that the end of the fuel vent line (by the fuel cap) is completely out of the fuel, so it's not that.
Anyone have any further suggestions? I'm pretty frustrated--I want to be flying, not fixing someone else's mistakes. FWIW, I picked up this wing kit in mid-2008.
-Rob
On Fri, Jan 14, 2011 at 6:35 AM, Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com (bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:
[quote] Thats what they tell me.
From: "n801bh(at)netzero.com (n801bh(at)netzero.com)" <n801bh(at)netzero.com (n801bh(at)netzero.com)>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Fri, January 14, 2011 2:39:50 AM
Subject: Re: Leaking tanks
Hard to believe 20 lbs didn't distort/deform/ destroy the tank.... You must be one lucky guy.
IMHO.
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
--------
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flysrv10(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 12:23 pm Post subject: Leaking tanks |
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Rob, I had the same problem and chased it for a year. It started with a minor leak at one of the top rivets and worsened to leaks from the same places you describe. Van gave me a repair kit and it held for a while but it did not work. I know you probably don't want to hear this; I had to replace the tank completely. Talk to van and see what they will do for you.
Do not archive.
Rob Kermanj
On Feb 14, 2012, at 12:37 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
[quote]Resurrecting this thread... I had the same problem on my right quickbuild tank (leaking not at the outlet fitting, but rather the VA-141 part that the fitting screws into), which I wrote about here earlier. I ended up gooping a bunch of proseal around the fitting and finger strainer, and that stopped the leak... at the time. Now I have 100 hours on the airplane and it's leaking again.
Also, on the same tank, I'm always had a fuel vent leak. It must be leaking at the fuel vent line fitting inside the tank, because that part passes the pressure leak test and it only leaks fuel when the fuel level is above the vent fitting at the wing root. Also, I have confirmed that the end of the fuel vent line (by the fuel cap) is completely out of the fuel, so it's not that.
Anyone have any further suggestions? I'm pretty frustrated--I want to be flying, not fixing someone else's mistakes. FWIW, I picked up this wing kit in mid-2008.
-Rob
On Fri, Jan 14, 2011 at 6:35 AM, Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com (bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:
[quote] Thats what they tell me.
From: "n801bh(at)netzero.com (n801bh(at)netzero.com)" <n801bh(at)netzero.com (n801bh(at)netzero.com)>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Fri, January 14, 2011 2:39:50 AM
Subject: Re: Leaking tanks
Hard to believe 20 lbs didn't distort/deform/ destroy the tank.... You must be one lucky guy.
IMHO.
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
--------
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dlm34077(at)q.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 1:12 pm Post subject: Leaking tanks |
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One other thing to consider is whether anyone stands on any portion of the tank during loading or unloading.
Standing on the tank induces substantial stress beyond the weight of the fuel in the tanks.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2012 1:22 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Leaking tanks
Rob, I had the same problem and chased it for a year. It started with a minor leak at one of the top rivets and worsened to leaks from the same places you describe. Van gave me a repair kit and it held for a while but it did not work. I know you probably don't want to hear this; I had to replace the tank completely. Talk to van and see what they will do for you.
Do not archive.
Rob Kermanj
On Feb 14, 2012, at 12:37 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
Resurrecting this thread... I had the same problem on my right quickbuild tank (leaking not at the outlet fitting, but rather the VA-141 part that the fitting screws into), which I wrote about here earlier. I ended up gooping a bunch of proseal around the fitting and finger strainer, and that stopped the leak... at the time. Now I have 100 hours on the airplane and it's leaking again.
Also, on the same tank, I'm always had a fuel vent leak. It must be leaking at the fuel vent line fitting inside the tank, because that part passes the pressure leak test and it only leaks fuel when the fuel level is above the vent fitting at the wing root. Also, I have confirmed that the end of the fuel vent line (by the fuel cap) is completely out of the fuel, so it's not that.
Anyone have any further suggestions? I'm pretty frustrated--I want to be flying, not fixing someone else's mistakes. FWIW, I picked up this wing kit in mid-2008.
-Rob
On Fri, Jan 14, 2011 at 6:35 AM, Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com (bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:
Thats what they tell me.
From: "n801bh(at)netzero.com (n801bh(at)netzero.com)" <n801bh(at)netzero.com (n801bh(at)netzero.com)>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Fri, January 14, 2011 2:39:50 AM
Subject: Re: Leaking tanks
Hard to believe 20 lbs didn't distort/deform/ destroy the tank.... You must be one lucky guy.
IMHO.
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
--------
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AirMike
Joined: 27 Feb 2007 Posts: 514 Location: Nevada
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Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 10:14 pm Post subject: Leaking vent line |
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Same problem here on the port side tank. Leaks when I fill over 20-25 gallons. Kind of a pain, so I keep the fuel level down except when I am ready to launch. Quick build 2007.
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Q/B - sold. |
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rene(at)felker.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 10:48 pm Post subject: Leaking tanks |
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I know it will not make this any better......but I flew 410RV for my
transition training. The fuel tank leaked on the co-pilot side (starboard).
I build my own tanks and have a leak on the starboard side also. My leak is
one rivet on the walk plate. I have tried several times to seal it with no
success. I tried again last week and first indications are that I was
successful.....but only time will tell. It is really no big deal because
mine is such a minor leak....but I feel I need to keep trying. I think of
my RV-10 as a tool and tools do not have to look perfect, they just need to
work that way. I have not seen any adverse handling qualities with the
leak....(that is a joke)...so it is ok. If I had paid someone else to build
my tanks, I think it would be P$%^ me off if they leaked. But since I built
them myself, I just feel real lucky that I only have one minor
leak.....after I completed the leak test. The leak testing did show another
more significant leak that I was able to fix during the build....but it did
not show the leaking rivet. I think that did not show up until after
somebody stepped on that portion of the tank.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
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jchang10
Joined: 05 Jul 2006 Posts: 227
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Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 11:33 pm Post subject: Re: Leaking tanks |
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I have weeping top rivets, too. I did the leak testing with a ballon, etc. after building the tanks, and all checked out at the time.
Recently, I tried squishing proseal with some negative pressure in the tank. It seemed to help some. I repeated the positive tank pressure test with soapy water which revealed one weeping rivet but not some others with fuel.
Clearly, the positive tank pressure test with just a balloon is not good enough to reveal all weeping rivets.
Jae
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_________________ #40533 RV-10
First flight 10/19/2011
Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011 |
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jkreidler
Joined: 13 Feb 2008 Posts: 151 Location: Sheboygan Falls WI
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Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 5:17 am Post subject: Re: Leaking tanks |
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We had this same problem on both tanks (quick build). After conversations with Vans we discovered that the tank is not meant to stepped on, although it appears that the inboard bay is reinforced, it is not meant to be stepped on. After studying the drawings (keep in mind I have never viewed the inside of a tank), I think the cause of the leaking rivets, aside from stepping on them) is that the stiffener angle does not overlap the inboard rib. This puts a huge force on the end rivets of the stiffener rib, since any force on the skin flexes the skin away from the rivet. If this doesn't make any sense I could make a drawing...
The only solution I found was to drill out the rivet and replace it with another rivet with JB weld under the head and generously applied to the hole. These rivets have essentially become glued joints. We tried the green Loctite, green Loctite with a vacuum, pro-seal, pro-seal thinned with MEK with a vacuum. The final solution was JB Weld and making sure to never step or sit on the tank.
Those extra rivets lull you into thinking that it is a step - it is not. Thanks - Jason
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_________________ Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617 |
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pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth. Guest
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Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 6:08 am Post subject: Leaking tanks |
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There are reports of green Loctite filling small leaks in the fuel
tanks. I don't know if it works or not since I haven't gone down that
path yet.
Negative pressure from a shop vac may help as well as 'cleaning' by
using MEK or acetone.
Linn
On 2/15/2012 2:33 AM, jchang10 wrote:
Quote: |
I have weeping top rivets, too. I did the leak testing with a ballon, etc. after building the tanks, and all checked out at the time.
Recently, I tried squishing proseal with some negative pressure in the tank. It seemed to help some. I repeated the positive tank pressure test with soapy water which revealed one weeping rivet but not some others with fuel.
Clearly, the positive tank pressure test with just a balloon is not good enough to reveal all weeping rivets.
Jae
--------
#40533 RV-10
First flight 10/19/2011
Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366336#366336
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Albert Gardner
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 455 Location: Yuma, AZ
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Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 7:35 am Post subject: Leaking tanks |
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You can get way too much negative pressure with a shop vac. I would suggest
a water manometer for both positive and negative pressure as it is very
controllable and sensitive enough to show leaks. I am currently patching a
friends RV-9 tanks. Both were leaking from the root rib so the work could be
done by removing the access cover. Several years ago we patched one leaky
top rivet by cutting an access port in the back baffle so we could buck the
leaky rivet. If it had been a bottom rivet I would have used a pop rivet and
lots of proseal. I took a pic of a manometer setup for those of you that may
not be familiar with this testing setup. Doesn't have to be fancy unless you
do it a lot and don't want to jury rig time after time. Caution: it doesn't
take much air to pressurize a tank: I think there are some tables floating
around on the RV list showing how much difference in the water columns
equates to pressure in psi. To get negative pressure just lower the open end
of the tube instead of blowing air into the tank.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
PS: One of the problems I have currently encountered is uncured proseal. It
looks like not enough care was taken when mixing the original application to
ensure through mixing of the proseal.
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coop85(at)verizon.net Guest
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Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 9:11 am Post subject: Leaking tanks |
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I'm walking in late to this thread so this may have been covered before. But I've had 3 rivets leak on the top of the tanks, (quick build) and successfully fixed them with the green locktite trick. It took a lot of applications over a number of months, but it appears to be working great as I have not had a leak in over a year and even was bold enough to throw some touch-up paint over the areas with no issues. It's a shame they went with the narrow holes for the fuel level senders on the -10, my RV-6 had plates large enough to reach in and reapply pro-seal provided the leaks were in the right place.
Marcus
40286
530 hours
On Feb 15, 2012, at 1:47 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
do not archive
I know it will not make this any better......but I flew 410RV for my
transition training. The fuel tank leaked on the co-pilot side (starboard).
I build my own tanks and have a leak on the starboard side also. My leak is
one rivet on the walk plate. I have tried several times to seal it with no
success. I tried again last week and first indications are that I was
successful.....but only time will tell. It is really no big deal because
mine is such a minor leak....but I feel I need to keep trying. I think of
my RV-10 as a tool and tools do not have to look perfect, they just need to
work that way. I have not seen any adverse handling qualities with the
leak....(that is a joke)...so it is ok. If I had paid someone else to build
my tanks, I think it would be P$%^ me off if they leaked. But since I built
them myself, I just feel real lucky that I only have one minor
leak.....after I completed the leak test. The leak testing did show another
more significant leak that I was able to fix during the build....but it did
not show the leaking rivet. I think that did not show up until after
somebody stepped on that portion of the tank.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
--
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rv10rob(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 9:49 am Post subject: Leaking tanks |
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Thanks, guys... Rob, it sounds like we're in a similar situation. We'll see what Van's says. I'd be happy with a few leaking rivets, but what I have is not a small leak. It causes blue streaks on the bottom of the wing and a fuel smell in the cockpit (though I only notice it on the ground when the doors have been closed for a while).
-Rob
On Tue, Feb 14, 2012 at 12:21 PM, Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com (flysrv10(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
[quote] Rob, I had the same problem and chased it for a year. It started with a minor leak at one of the top rivets and worsened to leaks from the same places you describe. Van gave me a repair kit and it held for a while but it did not work. I know you probably don't want to hear this; I had to replace the tank completely. Talk to van and see what they will do for you.
Do not archive.
Rob Kermanj
On Feb 14, 2012, at 12:37 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
[quote]Resurrecting this thread... I had the same problem on my right quickbuild tank (leaking not at the outlet fitting, but rather the VA-141 part that the fitting screws into), which I wrote about here earlier. I ended up gooping a bunch of proseal around the fitting and finger strainer, and that stopped the leak... at the time. Now I have 100 hours on the airplane and it's leaking again.
Also, on the same tank, I'm always had a fuel vent leak. It must be leaking at the fuel vent line fitting inside the tank, because that part passes the pressure leak test and it only leaks fuel when the fuel level is above the vent fitting at the wing root. Also, I have confirmed that the end of the fuel vent line (by the fuel cap) is completely out of the fuel, so it's not that.
Anyone have any further suggestions? I'm pretty frustrated--I want to be flying, not fixing someone else's mistakes. FWIW, I picked up this wing kit in mid-2008.
-Rob
On Fri, Jan 14, 2011 at 6:35 AM, Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com (bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:
[quote] Thats what they tell me.
From: "n801bh(at)netzero.com (n801bh(at)netzero.com)" <n801bh(at)netzero.com (n801bh(at)netzero.com)>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Fri, January 14, 2011 2:39:50 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
Hard to believe 20 lbs didn't distort/deform/ destroy the tank.... You must be one lucky guy.
IMHO.
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
--------
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http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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robertbrunk(at)mac.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 12:24 pm Post subject: Leaking tanks |
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I had my leaking tanks replaced by a reputable tank builder in Oregon using slow build parts. They still leaked. What is the trick for sealing the minor fuel discoloration leak on the rivet near the inboard upper tank. I would settle for that. The replaced tanks were quick- built. Robert N661G 300hrs
On Feb 15, 2012, at 11:08 AM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
[quote]
I'm walking in late to this thread so this may have been covered before. But I've had 3 rivets leak on the top of the tanks, (quick build) and successfully fixed them with the green locktite trick. It took a lot of applications over a number of months, but it appears to be working great as I have not had a leak in over a year and even was bold enough to throw some touch-up paint over the areas with no issues. It's a shame they went with the narrow holes for the fuel level senders on the -10, my RV-6 had plates large enough to reach in and reapply pro-seal provided the leaks were in the right place.
Marcus
40286
530 hours
On Feb 15, 2012, at 1:47 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
do not archive
I know it will not make this any better......but I flew 410RV for my
transition training. The fuel tank leaked on the co-pilot side (starboard).
I build my own tanks and have a leak on the starboard side also. My leak is
one rivet on the walk plate. I have tried several times to seal it with no
success. I tried again last week and first indications are that I was
successful.....but only time will tell. It is really no big deal because
mine is such a minor leak....but I feel I need to keep trying. I think of
my RV-10 as a tool and tools do not have to look perfect, they just need to
work that way. I have not seen any adverse handling qualities with the
leak....(that is a joke)...so it is ok. If I had paid someone else to build
my tanks, I think it would be P$%^ me off if they leaked. But since I built
them myself, I just feel real lucky that I only have one minor
leak.....after I completed the leak test. The leak testing did show another
more significant leak that I was able to fix during the build....but it did
not show the leaking rivet. I think that did not show up until after
somebody stepped on that portion of the tank.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
--
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coop85(at)verizon.net Guest
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Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 1:34 pm Post subject: Leaking tanks |
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Seems like a chat with the 'reputable tank builder' would be in order since a leak is why you had them build the tanks in the first place. However, a little green locktite repeatedly on the rivet seems to do a pretty nice job of sealing the rivet. Your situation was pretty much what I had, a very small leak that wasn't even detected until after the paint job, of course ;( Like I mentioned, it took a lot of applications (only a drop at a time) to do the trick but it's been good on all three leaking rivets for quite some time.
Marcus
do not archive
On Feb 15, 2012, at 3:21 PM, Robert Brunkenhoefer wrote:
I had my leaking tanks replaced by a reputable tank builder in Oregon using slow build parts. They still leaked. What is the trick for sealing the minor fuel discoloration leak on the rivet near the inboard upper tank. I would settle for that. The replaced tanks were quick- built. Robert N661G 300hrs
On Feb 15, 2012, at 11:08 AM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
[quote]
I'm walking in late to this thread so this may have been covered before. But I've had 3 rivets leak on the top of the tanks, (quick build) and successfully fixed them with the green locktite trick. It took a lot of applications over a number of months, but it appears to be working great as I have not had a leak in over a year and even was bold enough to throw some touch-up paint over the areas with no issues. It's a shame they went with the narrow holes for the fuel level senders on the -10, my RV-6 had plates large enough to reach in and reapply pro-seal provided the leaks were in the right place.
Marcus
40286
530 hours
On Feb 15, 2012, at 1:47 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
do not archive
I know it will not make this any better......but I flew 410RV for my
transition training. The fuel tank leaked on the co-pilot side (starboard).
I build my own tanks and have a leak on the starboard side also. My leak is
one rivet on the walk plate. I have tried several times to seal it with no
success. I tried again last week and first indications are that I was
successful.....but only time will tell. It is really no big deal because
mine is such a minor leak....but I feel I need to keep trying. I think of
my RV-10 as a tool and tools do not have to look perfect, they just need to
work that way. I have not seen any adverse handling qualities with the
leak....(that is a joke)...so it is ok. If I had paid someone else to build
my tanks, I think it would be P$%^ me off if they leaked. But since I built
them myself, I just feel real lucky that I only have one minor
leak.....after I completed the leak test. The leak testing did show another
more significant leak that I was able to fix during the build....but it did
not show the leaking rivet. I think that did not show up until after
somebody stepped on that portion of the tank.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
--
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rv10pro(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 1:34 pm Post subject: Leaking tanks |
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I seldom hear anyone talk of "wet" riveting technique. It's great to hear of the success/failure rate of green loctite though.
Makes me steer away from QB fuel cells. I also wonder about a few parts modifications to strengthen the "walk off" area.
John 40600 [quote][b]
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pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net Guest
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Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 3:11 pm Post subject: Leaking tanks |
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Since this has been an ongoing problem with RV-10’s from the very beginning, I modified my tanks when building them to add a 0.025” doubler under the skin on the top of the tanks, between the inboard rib and the next rib outboard and running from the rear tank baffle to over the J-channel in the tank. This duplicates the doubler used in the wingwalk area (although there are not as many ribs in the tank) and just stiffens the area up quite a bit. People still should not walk on this area, but feces occurs.
I ran the idea past Van’s and got their OK on it, which surprised me. Joe Blank at Van’s said “…As far as your RV-10 fuel tank leak prevention, I think that your thoughts are in the right direction. Tieing the inboard top stiffeners and J-Channel into both the inboard tank rib and the next one out would be a good way to further reinforce the structure in case that area see's some foot traffic (which is typical). It just happens... I think I would use some sort of doublers to accomplish this task.”
Of course, mine is not flying yet (and won’t for several years at the rate I’m working on it), but it seems to make sense.
Jack Phillips
#40610 Wings (Flaps)
Raleigh, NC
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2012 4:31 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Re: Leaking tanks
I seldom hear anyone talk of "wet" riveting technique. It's great to hear of the success/failure rate of green loctite though.
Makes me steer away from QB fuel cells. I also wonder about a few parts modifications to strengthen the "walk off" area.
John 40600 [quote] [b]
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flysrv10(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 4:06 pm Post subject: Leaking tanks |
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Your situation sounds a little worse than mine. I did not smell the fuel. Good luck. I think van will help you out.
Rob Kermanj
Sent from my iPad
On Feb 15, 2012, at 12:46 PM, Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com (rv10rob(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
[quote]Thanks, guys... Rob, it sounds like we're in a similar situation. We'll see what Van's says. I'd be happy with a few leaking rivets, but what I have is not a small leak. It causes blue streaks on the bottom of the wing and a fuel smell in the cockpit (though I only notice it on the ground when the doors have been closed for a while).
-Rob
On Tue, Feb 14, 2012 at 12:21 PM, Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com (flysrv10(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
[quote] Rob, I had the same problem and chased it for a year. It started with a minor leak at one of the top rivets and worsened to leaks from the same places you describe. Van gave me a repair kit and it held for a while but it did not work. I know you probably don't want to hear this; I had to replace the tank completely. Talk to van and see what they will do for you.
Do not archive.
Rob Kermanj
On Feb 14, 2012, at 12:37 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
[quote]Resurrecting this thread... I had the same problem on my right quickbuild tank (leaking not at the outlet fitting, but rather the VA-141 part that the fitting screws into), which I wrote about here earlier. I ended up gooping a bunch of proseal around the fitting and finger strainer, and that stopped the leak... at the time. Now I have 100 hours on the airplane and it's leaking again.
Also, on the same tank, I'm always had a fuel vent leak. It must be leaking at the fuel vent line fitting inside the tank, because that part passes the pressure leak test and it only leaks fuel when the fuel level is above the vent fitting at the wing root. Also, I have confirmed that the end of the fuel vent line (by the fuel cap) is completely out of the fuel, so it's not that.
Anyone have any further suggestions? I'm pretty frustrated--I want to be flying, not fixing someone else's mistakes. FWIW, I picked up this wing kit in mid-2008.
-Rob
On Fri, Jan 14, 2011 at 6:35 AM, Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com (bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:
[quote] Thats what they tell me.
From: "n801bh(at)netzero.com (n801bh(at)netzero.com)" <n801bh(at)netzero.com (n801bh(at)netzero.com)>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Fri, January 14, 2011 2:39:50 AM
Subject: Re: Leaking tanks
Hard to believe 20 lbs didn't distort/deform/ destroy the tank.... You must be one lucky guy.
IMHO.
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
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Kellym
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 1705 Location: Sun Lakes AZ
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Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 4:46 pm Post subject: Leaking tanks |
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Both some strengthening in the wing root area, and some additional
sealant steps are needed. I have done a couple Mooney tanks, and they
require application of B-2 compound to do all the rib and spar joints,
followed by A-2 compound which is thinner and brushable over all of the
rivet shop heads and over all the B-2 compound, followed by brushed on
sloshing compound (aka cherry juice). This is not the crud Vans used to
recommend, but Proseal PR-1005 or Flamemaster CS3600, which is tougher
than the Proseal, and protects the Proseal from alcohol and aromatics as
well as sealing pinholes. It is tougher to remove than Proseal.
Vans one step Proseal method in my opinion is not adequate to assure
leak free in high percentage of tanks.
On 2/15/2012 2:31 PM, John Cox wrote:
Quote: |
I seldom hear anyone talk of "wet" riveting technique. It's great to
hear of the success/failure rate of green loctite though.
Makes me steer away from QB fuel cells. I also wonder about a few
parts modifications to strengthen the "walk off" area.
John 40600
*
*
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_________________ Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor # 5286
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rv10flyer
Joined: 25 Aug 2009 Posts: 364
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Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 6:57 am Post subject: Re: Leaking tanks |
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Roughen any mating surfaces/clean well with mek. I used almost two qts of proseal from ACS. Allowed two days to cure. Used one pint of PR-1005-L Buna-N sealant on prosealed joints. Every rivet installed wet. Allowed two more days to cure. Pressurized to one psi using digital manometer. Most balloons do not produce enough pressure when fully inflated. They range between .25-.75 psi. Pressure held for two days. Also checked all external joints, rivets, fittings and caps with leak detection fluid used for refrigerant/natural gas leaks. No peeling of Buna-N or leaks so far.
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_________________ Wayne G. |
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rv10pro(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 7:20 am Post subject: Leaking tanks |
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Wayne, that is the first comprehensive narrative of doing it right.
Nicely done! The best of luck well into the future.
Sometimes the shotcuts produce marginal results.
John 40600 On Feb 18, 2012 7:05 AM, "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com (wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com)> wrote:[quote] --> RV10-List message posted by: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com (wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com)>
Roughen any mating surfaces/clean well with mek. I used almost two qts of proseal from ACS. Allowed two days to cure. Used one pint of PR-1005-L Buna-N sealant on prosealed joints. Every rivet installed wet. Allowed two more days to cure. Pressurized to one psi using digital manometer. Most balloons do not produce enough pressure when fully inflated. They range between .25-.75 psi. Pressure held for two days. Also checked all external joints, rivets, fittings and caps with leak detection fluid used for refrigerant/natural gas leaks. No peeling of Buna-N or leaks so far.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 05/93 PP 10/08
40983SB 12/1/2009-12/1/2011
N715WD 382nd Flying. TT= 29 hrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366532#366532
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