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carl.froehlich(at)verizon
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 Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 5:14 pm Post subject: Rigging thoughts |
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60 hours on the RV-10 and one long cross country. Here are some recent tweaks that I’ve incorporated:
<![if !supportLists]>- <![endif]>Added a .063” shim under the forward HS spar. This moved the elevators to a better trail position in cruise. I had a .040” shim in for 10 hours or so. It helped but was not quite enough. Even with this larger shim I have more nose up trim authority than I will ever need. With anything other than forward CG conditions however the elevators are still slightly trailing edge down. This calls for a larger shim but the .063” is about all I want to do for now as more may force an empennage fairing adjustment and/or re-hanging the rudder. For those wondering, my W&B is typical of other RV-10s.
<![if !supportLists]>- <![endif]>Right wing slightly heavy. Not so bad that aileron trim would not fix, but not right. After some careful measurements I found the right aileron inboard hinge placed the aileron slightly high (as compared to the outboard hinge and the left aileron). I lowered the inboard side of the aileron .032” or so and this resolved the wing heavy issue.
<![if !supportLists]>- <![endif]>Ball not centered. I chased my tail on this for some time. With the wheel pants and gear leg fairing off the ball is dead center. Various tweaks on the pants and fairings either had the ball ½ out left or right. After several tries it is now dead center (and just finished final pant and fairing paint today). Some take-aways for those working this issue:
<![if !supportLists]>o <![endif]>The fairing adjustments are far more critical than the wheel pants at affecting the ball. Set the wheel pants as close as possible, then make all adjustments to the fairings after that.
<![if !supportLists]>o <![endif]>The Van’s instructions lead you to think you can mount the wheel pants with the plane on the gear. I don’t recommend this.
<![if !supportLists]>o <![endif]>You can never be too accurate setting up to check the fairing rig. A 1/16” move of the fairings trailing edge equals ¼ ball or so.
<![if !supportLists]>- <![endif]>Don’t paint the pants or fairings until after you are flying.
<![if !supportLists]>- <![endif]>Add the “reinforcement glass” to the nose gear wheel pant (there was a recent thread on this). After mine cracked, I added two layers of carbon fiber to the inside, ground out the crack and filled it in with flox, sanded then two layers of regular glass on the outside over the crack. This was followed by the normal “micro-balloon and sand until you puke” routine.
Rigging does matter. I notice a measureable gain in top and cruise speeds after these tweaks. At one time while chasing the ball I had the wheel pants way out of alignment (before I figured out the fairings are the real drivers). This caused and easy 5 knot loss.
Carl
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Lew Gallagher
Joined: 04 Jan 2008
Posts: 402
Location: Greenville , SC
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| Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 4:45 am Post subject: Rigging thoughts |
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Hey Carl,
Thanks for posting this on rigging. VERY interesting and helpful!
I’m especially interested in how you lowered the inboard side of the aileron.
Later, – Lew
do not archive
[quote][b]
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crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
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Bob Turner
Joined: 03 Jan 2009
Posts: 885
Location: Castro Valley, CA
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| Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 11:01 am Post subject: Re: Rigging thoughts |
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I can confirm that moving the aileron vertical height a small amount can make a huge difference. In my case it was left wing heavy, and I lowered the outboard bracket, about 1/32 to 1/16". I did it by slotting the holes in the mounting bracket. Vans sells un-drilled mounting brackets if you don't like the idea of leaving it slotted. (The brackets are for the -7, but can be made to work on the -10). I haven't yet decided what my permanent fix will be.
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Bob Turner
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