BobbyPaulk(at)comcast.net
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 Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 2:31 pm Post subject: Early Engines |
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p { margin: 0; }Tim,
On your early 3300 you probably need to check the Carb to see if you have the white floats. The latest are black and seat the needle valve much better than the older white ones. My white floats were passing fuel at a little less than 2 psi. Also make sure you have the latest needle valve _ the rubber tipped one that controls fuel into the carb bowl - it was changed to a better material. You can order the floats and the newest needle from Pete . When you change the needle valve check the seat for burrs - mine had a ragged burr from the factory drill that made the hole. This caused massive flooding. The exhaust looked like a too rich diesel - black smoke even at idle. I had to take a larger drill bit and by hand cut the burr off and then polish the seat face with a wood dowel and very fine valve grinding compound.
I would also recommend going to larger needle jet and main jets. When I got all the above worked out my engine was running extremely lean and hot. I went to a 260 Main Jet and 285 Needle Jet in stages and finally got the mixture close enough at most throttle settings.
It would be better to start off a little richer during break-in. You can always lean them back if necessary but I don't think you will need to. With these jets I still average a little less than 5 gph at economy cruise.
My #6 cylinder runs the hottest and will approach 330 deg. in climb. At cruise it will come down to 305 ~ 310 deg. All other cylinders are under 290 at cruise. CHT is measured at the spark plugs nearest the exhaust valve.
Bobby ( age 75 )
Zodiac 601 XL "B"
Jabiru 3300 S/N 1141
Sensenich 64" x 51" Prop
Bing Carb 260 Main & 285 Needle Jet
Status - Flying 186 hrs.
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