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billhuntersemail(at)gmail Guest
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Posted: Sat May 14, 2022 11:20 am Post subject: Hangar Electrical Work |
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Hi All.
So this question is about a hangar at an airport albeit a slight off topic question for the multi-knowledgeable among us...
I have a 50 amp RV receptacle box mounted to the outer side wall of my steel hangar and it is fed by the four red/green/white/black wires that are routed from the inside of the building through metal conduit that is inserted through the side wall out to the steel box where the receptacle is installed as per code.
I want to decommission that receptacle so I can extend the wires outside underground to a newly installed pedestal about 20 feet away...in other words I need to open the existing metal box, eliminate the receptacle and put a cover over the opening, run a conduit from the bottom of the existing box down the outside hangar wall and into the ground and then run it under ground out horizontal 20 feet, and then up the side of a newly installed "pedestal" (4X4 pressure treated post sticking out of the ground) to a new receptacle.
So the questions are:
-What method should I use to electrically connect the 4 wires at the side wall box to the new wires that are being run through the conduit to the new pedestal mounted receptacle?
-The travel trailer that will occupy my new trailer park is a 30 Amp unit so I presume I should run the four 50 Amp wires through the new underground conduit to the new new pedestal mounted receptacle so as to take advantage of the additional conductor?
-Regarding the new receptacle should I go with a 50 Amp or a 30 Amp?
-If I install a 50 Amp receptacle to the new pedestal then I could plug in the trailer using a 50 Amp to 30 Amp adapter plug...or...
-Should I install a 30 Amp plug at the new receptacle so as to limit the current draw considering the the additional 30 feet of wire resistance?
-If I went with a 30 Amp receptacle, then how would I connect the 4 wires to the 3 wire 30 Amp plug?
-What is an economical conduit for the underground run that is appropriate for the exposed sections (down hangar wall and up pedestal)?
-How deep does conduit need to be buried?
-What diameter conduit should I use?
-Where is a good source to procure the plastic pink flamingos, tiki torches, and rolled out fake grass required to amplify the tackiness of my new trailer park?
Sorry for the slightly off topic question however you all are the smartest people I know on any subject so I'm sure there is someone on this list who used to do this work and could provide some "if it were me I would..." statements.
Thanks for your patience and offline responses are good so as to avoid spamming of my off topic post!!!
Bill
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Rowland_Carson
Joined: 04 Jul 2008 Posts: 155 Location: Cheltenham, England
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Posted: Sat May 14, 2022 11:40 am Post subject: Hangar Electrical Work |
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On 2022-05-14, at 20:19, William Hunter <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com> wrote:
Quote: | So this question is about a hangar at an airport albeit a slight off topic question for the multi-knowledgeable among us...
I have a 50 amp RV receptacle box mounted to the outer side wall of my steel hangar and it is fed by the four red/green/white/black wires that are routed from the inside of the building through metal conduit that is inserted through the side wall out to the steel box where the receptacle is installed as per code.
I want to decommission that receptacle
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Bill - it might help to focus the replies if you could mention what country you live in . . . . . electrical practice does vary quite a bit between different jurisdictions.
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com> http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
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user9253
Joined: 28 Mar 2008 Posts: 1921 Location: Riley TWP Michigan
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Posted: Mon May 16, 2022 4:14 pm Post subject: Re: Hangar Electrical Work |
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Use the same size new wire as the existing wire.
The trailer electrical load determines the amount of current, not the receptacle size.
Use a 30 amp receptacle.
Use gray plastic conduit or use rigid metal conduit if there is a damage risk.
Buy conduit one size bigger than you think that you need.
Use a shop vac to suck a pull string through the conduit.
Bury the conduit 2 feet deep or more.
Use the green/white/black wires, but not the red one.
Search Google for "how to wire 30 amp RV plug"
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Ceengland
Joined: 11 Oct 2020 Posts: 391 Location: MS
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Posted: Mon May 16, 2022 5:20 pm Post subject: Hangar Electrical Work |
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On 5/14/2022 2:19 PM, William Hunter wrote:
Quote: | Hi All.
So this question is about a hangar at an airport albeit a slight off
topic question for the multi-knowledgeable among us...
I have a 50 amp RV receptacle box mounted to the outer side wall of my
steel hangar and it is fed by the four red/green/white/black wires
that are routed from the inside of the building through metal conduit
that is inserted through the side wall out to the steel box where the
receptacle is installed as per code.
I want to decommission that receptacle so I can extend the wires
outside underground to a newly installed pedestal about 20 feet
away...in other words I need to open the existing metal box, eliminate
the receptacle and put a cover over the opening, run a conduit from
the bottom of the existing box down the outside hangar wall and into
the ground and then run it under ground out horizontal 20 feet, and
then up the side of a newly installed "pedestal" (4X4 pressure treated
post sticking out of the ground) to a new receptacle.
So the questions are:
-What method should I use to electrically connect the 4 wires at the
side wall box to the new wires that are being run through the conduit
to the new pedestal mounted receptacle?
-The travel trailer that will occupy my new trailer park is a 30 Amp
unit so I presume I should run the four 50 Amp wires through the new
underground conduit to the new new pedestal mounted receptacle so as
to take advantage of the additional conductor?
-Regarding the new receptacle should I go with a 50 Amp or a 30 Amp?
-If I install a 50 Amp receptacle to the new pedestal then I
could plug in the trailer using a 50 Amp to 30 Amp adapter plug...or...
-Should I install a 30 Amp plug at the new receptacle so as to
limit the current draw considering the the additional 30 feet of wire
resistance?
-If I went with a 30 Amp receptacle, then how would I
connect the 4 wires to the 3 wire 30 Amp plug?
-What is an economical conduit for the underground run that is
appropriate for the exposed sections (down hangar wall and up pedestal)?
-How deep does conduit need to be buried?
-What diameter conduit should I use?
-Where is a good source to procure the plastic pink flamingos, tiki
torches, and rolled out fake grass required to amplify the tackiness
of my new trailer park?
Sorry for the slightly off topic question however you all are the
smartest people I know on any subject so I'm sure there is someone on
this list who used to do this work and could provide some "if it were
me I would..." statements.
Thanks for your patience and offline responses are good so as to avoid
spamming of my off topic post!!!
Bill
Is this under a grass area, with little to no vehicle traffic? If so,
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direct burial cable will get the job done. I've had a run buried from my
house to hangar for over 20 years, with frequent tractor traffic
(mowing) & occasional cars & trucks on it. Depth is a 'code' thing; if
your location isn't subject to heavy traffic or code inspectors, but
anything over 15-20 inches would protect the wire, but it might be more
vulnerable to later digging. Schedule 40 PVC down the wall and into the
ground, then just bury the cable to the post, and sched40 up the post to
the box. If it's driven on constantly, then I'd use the PVC all the way
and run individual conductors in the pipe. Steel isn't that much tougher
than sched40 PVC for a burial application, and it *will* rust away
eventually. The power company here always uses PVC when going under
gravel driveways, and direct burial cable elsewhere (with PVC pipe
protection above ground).
In the US, 4 wire is now the 'standard' for 220VAC; typically hot black,
hot red, neutral white, ground green or bare. If you have to deal with
inspectors, 4 wires & a 4 hole outlet might save you some grief. Also
give future flexibility; the next RV might be bigger.
I'm not an electrician, but I've done quite a bit of electrical work (my
dad was a licensed electrician), and the above is what I've done for my
own applications.
FWIW,
Charlie
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_________________ Charlie |
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