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fabric temp/ paint

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roncarolnikko(at)hotmail.
Guest

Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 11:04 am Post subject: fabric temp/ paint

What temps have been used to shrink the fabric?  I could not bring myself to 

go 350 on the fuselage as it was starting to deform the longerons.  now I am 

ready for final shrinking on the tail group and want it as tight as 

possible.

   I used almost one gallon of polybrush on fuselage, and almost as much 

polyspray.  The white however covered well with the first coat and the 

second coat was a formality.  barely over a half gallon. Is there any 

advantage to more color?  I have HVLP but used my old bottom feeder for this 

as I have more experience with the older style.   Not a technique for 

beginers, but on autos I pull the needle way back for lots of paint, stay 

close and move really fast.  You can give another fast pass if needed or 

move away if it went on heavy.  On single stage paints this allows 

completing the coat and tying in the wet edge at the starting point.  May 

not be needed with polytone, but did it by habit.   Perhaps this why it 

covered so well.    Ron NB Or

Jim Shumaker

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 106

Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 11:30 am Post subject: fabric temp/ paint

Ron

   

  250 degrees F. 

   

  More paint is more weight.  Do you want to fly well or show well?  One of the tricks that was employed with the early kitfoxes was a very thin paint coat to save weight.

   

  Jim Shumaker



ron schick <roncarolnikko(at)hotmail.com> wrote:

  



What temps have been used to shrink the fabric? I could not bring myself to 

go 350 on the fuselage as it was starting to deform the longerons. now I am 

ready for final shrinking on the tail group and want it as tight as 

possible.

I used almost one gallon of polybrush on fuselage, and almost as much 

polyspray. The white however covered well with the first coat and the 

second coat was a formality. barely over a half gallon. Is there any 

advantage to more color? I have HVLP but used my old bottom feeder for this 

as I have more experience with the older style. Not a technique for 

beginers, but on autos I pull the needle way back for lots of paint, stay 

close and move really fast. You can give another fast pass if needed or 

move away if it went on heavy. On single stage paints this allows 

completing the coat and tying in the wet edge at the starting point. May 

not be needed with polytone, but did it by habit. Perhaps this why it 

covered so well. Ron NB Or

_________________
Jim Shumaker

rjdaugh(at)rapidnet.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 12:13 pm Post subject: fabric temp/ paint

300F most places.  275 F in some places.



350F is too high for our foxes.  And be sure your iron calibration is

accurate.



Randy



.           

--

aldaniels(at)fmtc.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 2:15 pm Post subject: fabric temp/ paint

On the 5,6,7 I use 325/350 in most places. On cold days the fabric seems 

a little loose when I didn't fully shrink. The trailing edge of the wing 

seems to be the place you have to watch. The Poly system is dead simple, 

but there are a few tricks. Were in Oregon are you, I am in eastern Oregon.



Randy Daughenbaugh wrote:



[quote]



300F most places.  275 F in some places.



350F is too high for our foxes.  And be sure your iron calibration is

accurate.



Randy



.           

--

Lynn Matteson

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 2:29 pm Post subject: fabric temp/ paint

Did you reinforce the trailing edge of the wing with 3/8" aluminum 

tubing per the later Classic IV manual? I did and I used 310F for all 

my shrinking.



Lynn



On Saturday, January 21, 2006, at 05:15  PM, Alan & Linda Daniels wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 <aldaniels(at)fmtc.com>



 On the 5,6,7 I use 325/350 in most places. On cold days the fabric 

 seems

 a little loose when I didn't fully shrink. The trailing edge of the 

 wing

 seems to be the place you have to watch. The Poly system is dead 

 simple,

 but there are a few tricks. Were in Oregon are you, I am in eastern 

 Oregon.



 Randy Daughenbaugh wrote:

_________________
Lynn
Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM

roncarolnikko(at)hotmail.
Guest

Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 2:30 pm Post subject: fabric temp/ paint

Alan I am in North Bend (oth) next to Coos Bay.    Ron NB Or

do not archive



 	  Quote: 	
		  From: Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels(at)fmtc.com>

Reply-To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com

To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: Re: fabric temp/ paint

Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2006 15:15:15 -0700




<aldaniels(at)fmtc.com>



On the 5,6,7 I use 325/350 in most places. On cold days the fabric seems

a little loose when I didn't fully shrink. The trailing edge of the wing

seems to be the place you have to watch. The Poly system is dead simple,

but there are a few tricks. Were in Oregon are you, I am in eastern Oregon






	


On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to 

get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement

Brett Walmsley

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 47
Location: Savannah, GA

Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 5:31 pm Post subject: fabric temp/ paint

I went to 350 everywhere.

I also put stiffeners in trailing edge of wing.

---

_________________
Brett
Model IV 1200/912UL

rjdaugh(at)rapidnet.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 9:33 am Post subject: fabric temp/ paint

Lynn,

No, I didn't.  I am pretty sure that the series 5 manual doesn't call for.  



Al (see below) uses higher temperatures and does say to watch the trailing

edge of the wing.  I haven't noticed any loosening fabric though.



Randy



.           

--

Lynn Matteson

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 8:03 pm Post subject: fabric temp/ paint

Randy-

You probably won't see the loosening of the fabric, just a "scalloped" 

look to the trailing edge, if viewed from a low angle, say, from the 

tip in to the root. It's one of those things that wouldn't be noticed 

normally, and I wouldn't have thought about it if I hadn't seen it in 

the later Classic IV manual.



Lynn

On Monday, January 23, 2006, at 12:32  PM, Randy Daughenbaugh wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 <rjdaugh(at)rapidnet.com>



 Lynn,

 No, I didn't.  I am pretty sure that the series 5 manual doesn't call 

 for.



 Al (see below) uses higher temperatures and does say to watch the 

 trailing

 edge of the wing.  I haven't noticed any loosening fabric though.



 Randy



 .

_________________
Lynn
Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM

smokey_bear_40220(at)yaho
Guest

Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 8:45 pm Post subject: fabric temp/ paint

I was advised to stiffen the trailing edge on my 5 and

I am glad I did.  One person ran diagonals from the

ribs to the center of the trailing edge between the

ribs.  Wish I did that.  It only takes a little AL or

plywood to do it.  Very light for the gain.



I did as the other person advised and sprayed

expanding foam into the trailing edge to keep it from

buckling easily.  I like the extra stiffness, but both

methods would have been better.



I kept my heat to 300 except over the tanks where I

went to 315.  Much more temp and I would worry about

the false ribs snapping too.



Kurt S.  S-5 w/70 hrs



--- Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   Randy-

 You probably won't see the loosening of the fabric,

 just a "scalloped" look to the trailing edge, if

viewed from a 
	


 	  Quote: 	
		   low angle, say, from the tip in to the root.

 It's one of those things that

 wouldn't be noticed normally, and I wouldn't have

thought 
	


 	  Quote: 	
		   about it if I hadn't seen it in the later Classic IV

manual.
	


 	  Quote: 	
		   

 Lynn

 On Monday, January 23, 2006, at 12:32  PM, Randy

 Daughenbaugh wrote:

 

 > 

 Daughenbaugh" 

 > <rjdaugh(at)rapidnet.com>

 >

 > Lynn,

 > No, I didn't.  I am pretty sure that the series 5

 manual doesn't call for.

 >

 > Al (see below) uses higher temperatures and does

 say to watch the trailing edge of the wing.

 > I haven't noticed any loosening fabric though.

 >

 > Randy

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