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Vamoose' Ex-Reduction Drive

 
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biglar



Joined: 14 Jan 2006
Posts: 457

PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 8:14 pm    Post subject: Vamoose' Ex-Reduction Drive Reply with quote

I mentioned a problem with Vamoose' redrive a bit ago, and have been asked for more info, so I guess I should share it with all. I'm not really crazy about this, but.........

I started the engine without the prop on a few weeks ago, and it ran great. NO OIL LEAKS ! ! ! I thought I was home free, and was daydreaming about actually flying the thing, and wanted to get it in the air by Nov. 15 - the 10th anniversary of receiving the kit from TOK. I was really going for it - working on it every day after work.

So, I bolted the prop back on, safety wired it, and lit 'er up. The engine started to fire, then backfired or kicked back - or both - and there was a loud bang and a jolt and the engine stopped. Hitting the starter didn't even wiggle the prop, so I shut everything off and tried hand propping it. Wouldn't move, so I tore that s.o.b. redrive off - again - and tore it apart - again. Here's a picture of what I found. That chain literally exploded. I think that's more than a great plenty. I've stubbornly worked thru several issues with that thing, and that's enuf. I don't want to fly in front of it, so it goes in the trash.

From here ?? I dunno yet. I'm researching a couple of other redrives, but it's too early to say yet. I'll keep ya posted.     Lar.

Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
Vamoose
www.gogittum.com


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Jim Baker



Joined: 30 Mar 2006
Posts: 181
Location: Sayre, PA

PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 9:31 pm    Post subject: Vamoose' Ex-Reduction Drive Reply with quote

Quote:
Here's a picture of what I found. That chain
literally exploded.

Holy crap! Just for info...is either drive hub/gear cushioned on
the shaft or just bolted up solid?
Jim Baker
580.788.2779
Elmore City, OK


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biglar



Joined: 14 Jan 2006
Posts: 457

PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 5:04 am    Post subject: Vamoose' Ex-Reduction Drive Reply with quote

It's solid, no cushioning. The theory the mfr explained to me was that the
belly in the chain caused by centrifugal force would act as a cushion.
Maybe, but it was still at cranking speed - not much speed for centrifugal
force to be a factor. Lar.

Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
---


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"Vamoose"
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John Hauck



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 4639
Location: Titus, Alabama (hauck's holler)

PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 5:24 am    Post subject: Vamoose' Ex-Reduction Drive Reply with quote

| It's solid, no cushioning. The theory the mfr explained to me was
that the
| belly in the chain caused by centrifugal force would act as a
cushion.
Lar.

Larry:

How many of these redrives in operation?

Any idea how much time owners have accumulated on them?

Are they designed specifically for VW engines?

The 912ULS had a problem with gear box chatter at start up and idle,
even though it had a "ramp and dog" system same as the 912UL. The
difference being compression ratio. 912UL, I think, is 9 or 9.5 to 1.
The 912ULS is 10.5 to one. After 850 hours I installed the high
torque starter and slipper clutch. The 912ULS became a docile engine,
even more so than the 912UL.

I think what I am trying to say is, engines can behave quite violently
from torsional vibration, even when they are equipped to handle the
job. A high compression engine, in particular, will not tolerate
torsional vibration when there is no system to absorb it, e.g., a
solid chain drive. Not much absorbtion in chain drives.

Sorry to hear of your continued problem. Really takes the fun out of
building and hopefully flying your Kolb.

Take care,

john h
mkIII


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Jim Baker



Joined: 30 Mar 2006
Posts: 181
Location: Sayre, PA

PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 5:57 am    Post subject: Vamoose' Ex-Reduction Drive Reply with quote

Quote:
It's solid, no cushioning. The theory the mfr explained to me was that the
belly in the chain caused by centrifugal force would act as a cushion.
Maybe, but it was still at cranking speed - not much speed for centrifugal
force to be a factor. Lar.

Well, that's a perpetuated lie (not from you, the Hy-Vo chain
community)....

http://www.epi-eng.com/GBX-ChainDrv.htm

Good info here. I feel for you in this effort, doing something no
one else has done isn't always easy. Obviously the chain was
overloaded which intimates a design flaw in material selection
(chain width, tooth pitch, static tension, alignment of sprokets,
etc). Was the chain tight enough to prevent tooth skipping? Just
random thoughts.....

Obviously overloaded but, man, look at the off-road transfer
cases that use these things...some of those take a beating far
worse and live. I'd probably look at turning the chain drive into a
spur gear system....I didn't save your picture so wondering if
there was enough room to fit a bearing carrier between the
gears. And searched the archives but didn't see it....who made
this PSRU?
Jim Baker
580.788.2779
Elmore City, OK


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 5:59 am    Post subject: Vamoose' Ex-Reduction Drive Reply with quote

Larry, This is truly what the word bummer was invented to describe. Have you thought of adapting a Rotax gearbox to your engine? Might take a bit of machine work, but you'd have a proven drive with only the adaptation to de-bug. Just a thought.

Rick

On 10/1/06, Larry Bourne <biglar(at)gogittum.com (biglar(at)gogittum.com)> wrote:
Quote:
I mentioned a problem with Vamoose' redrive a bit ago, and have been asked for more info, so I guess I should share it with all. I'm not really crazy about this, but.........

I started the engine without the prop on a few weeks ago, and it ran great. NO OIL LEAKS ! ! ! I thought I was home free, and was daydreaming about actually flying the thing, and wanted to get it in the air by Nov. 15 - the 10th anniversary of receiving the kit from TOK. I was really going for it - working on it every day after work.

So, I bolted the prop back on, safety wired it, and lit 'er up. The engine started to fire, then backfired or kicked back - or both - and there was a loud bang and a jolt and the engine stopped. Hitting the starter didn't even wiggle the prop, so I shut everything off and tried hand propping it. Wouldn't move, so I tore that s.o.b. redrive off - again - and tore it apart - again. Here's a picture of what I found. That chain literally exploded. I think that's more than a great plenty. I've stubbornly worked thru several issues with that thing, and that's enuf. I don't want to fly in front of it, so it goes in the trash.

From here ?? I dunno yet. I'm researching a couple of other redrives, but it's too early to say yet. I'll keep ya posted. Lar.

Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
Vamoose
www.gogittum.com


--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport. [quote][b]


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Rex Rodebush



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 209
Location: Branson West area, Missouri

PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 7:56 am    Post subject: Re: Vamoose' Ex-Reduction Drive Reply with quote

Probably hit a torsional. Undamped torsional vibration can increase extreamly fast to tremendous levels. I've seen a 6" 4340 shaft snapped off on a compressor application and it happened in just a few seconds.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 8:30 am    Post subject: Vamoose' Ex-Reduction Drive Reply with quote

Larry Bourne wrote:

Quote:


It's solid, no cushioning. The theory the mfr explained to me was
that the belly in the chain caused by centrifugal force would act as a
cushion. Maybe, but it was still at cranking speed - not much speed
for centrifugal force to be a factor. Lar.

Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
Vamoose
www.gogittum.com


Find different drive maker that understands engineering & physics
instead of old wives' (hangar) tales. A 4 cyl engine has large torque
reversals between each power pulse. That's what breaks cranks on direct
drive auto conversions.
For a chain drive with no torsion damping, think about the difference
between a weight hanging on a chain & the same weight if you repeatedly
jerk on the chain, timing the jerks so each jerk happens just as the
weight bottoms out. If you get the weight flying high enough, think
about the force on the chain as the weight 'hits bottom' the next time
you jerk the chain. You can break a very large chain with a very small
weight doing this.

Charlie


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 10:36 am    Post subject: Vamoose' Ex-Reduction Drive Reply with quote

I can feel your frustration Larry. But like some of the other members have said, I don't think you can have a direct power transfer without some sort of slippage or shock absorbing unit. I'm certainly not an expert of these re drives but many use cog belts. Have you given these a thought?
As Bald Eagle
[quote] ---


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John Hauck



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 4639
Location: Titus, Alabama (hauck's holler)

PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 10:51 am    Post subject: Vamoose' Ex-Reduction Drive Reply with quote

certainly not an expert of these re drives but many use cog belts.
Have you given these a thought?
AZ Bald Eagle

George T:

With cog belts one has the same problem. Instead of breaking chains
and tearing up gears, the cogs are ripped off the belt. Most belts
now use Kevlar or something similar. This stuff does not stretch or
slip.

Dan H of my area did a lot of study and experimentation on the 3 cyl
Suzuki on his 3/4 scale Jenny. Even enlisted the help of a Scientist
to help with sensors and computers to try and come up with a cause and
a solution. All this was way over my head, but one thing did get my
attention. One night Dan put a strobe light on the spinning IVO prop
on the little Suzuki. The prop blades looked like snake dancers.
Would never have imagined they would wiggle the way they did with the
engine run up.

Some things work and some don't. Maybe you all can find an answer.

john h
mkIII


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 11:23 am    Post subject: Vamoose' Ex-Reduction Drive Reply with quote

John is correct about the suzuki and its strange harmonics.
Raven, the principal supplier of drives for this engine hasn't had much
problem
with the belt as long as it is tensioned properly, too loose wipes the
cogs off
and too tight overheats and destroys bearings. -Not easy to arrive at
the right tension immediately because the alloy block and head expand
a lot with warmup. When cold the belt looks disturbingly slack.
I have had some recurring difficulty with my main shaft bearings losing
preload torque on the stack, causing the spacer between the bearings
to spin. It performed perfectly all this summer until a week ago with
Thom Riddle and Will U. chasing me with a video cam inspired me to
work it a bit too hard.
-Still investigating and learning.
experimental BB
On 2, Oct 2006, at 2:51 PM, John Hauck wrote:

Quote:


certainly not an expert of these re drives but many use cog belts.
Have you given these a thought?
AZ Bald Eagle

George T:

With cog belts one has the same problem. Instead of breaking chains
and tearing up gears, the cogs are ripped off the belt. Most belts
now use Kevlar or something similar. This stuff does not stretch or
slip.

Dan H of my area did a lot of study and experimentation on the 3 cyl
Suzuki on his 3/4 scale Jenny. Even enlisted the help of a Scientist
to help with sensors and computers to try and come up with a cause and
a solution. All this was way over my head, but one thing did get my
attention. One night Dan put a strobe light on the spinning IVO prop
on the little Suzuki. The prop blades looked like snake dancers.
Would never have imagined they would wiggle the way they did with the
engine run up.

Some things work and some don't. Maybe you all can find an answer.

john h
mkIII



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 12:13 pm    Post subject: Vamoose' Ex-Reduction Drive Reply with quote

I have the Valley Redrive on my VW powered MKIIIc. At one point I came very
close to buying the same redrive Lar bought but didn't feel comfortable with
the chain. The Valley redrive uses a coged belt. It works well with wood
props and to a some what lesser degree my three bladed PowerFin. My
understanding is the wood props have very low mass and are very rigid. The
VW engine is a very smooth engine with low compression so it is fairly
forgiving. It does shake on start up and shut down but isn't violent so it
has never presented a problem. I can even idle the engine down to 800 RPM. I
have never had a problem with the belt adjustment after the first hour of
run in. They are adjusted per instructions and stay at that setting. Now
with this said it does vibrate more than it did with direct drive. I have
had cracked exhaust system brackets, Air cleaners, a drive bracket and a few
nuts and bolts work loose. So far I have had one forced landing over the
last 230 hours because I normally find the problem on preflight and so far
have been able to fix the problem. The guys at Valley swear by smoothness of
their drive with wood props and promise that they will have a long term fix
for composite props. They have tried rubber dampers, a modified drive like
they have on their V twin, and a sprag clutch without a satisfactory fix.
They promise to keep trying and have been very helpful with any problems I
have had. They even offered to help with the cost of the my engine when my
drive bracket broke (the over reved engine was my fault).

Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
---


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Jim Baker



Joined: 30 Mar 2006
Posts: 181
Location: Sayre, PA

PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 12:43 pm    Post subject: Vamoose' Ex-Reduction Drive Reply with quote

Quote:
The guys at Valley swear by smoothness of
their drive with wood props and promise that they will have a long term fix
for composite props. They have tried rubber dampers, a modified drive like
they have on their V twin, and a sprag clutch without a satisfactory fix.

They're unlikely, except perhaps through luck, to develop a
solution without a thourough survey of vibrational characteristics
of the system as a whole. Not cheap, not easy without extensive
instrumented/strain guaged props and not a few accellerometers.
Dampeners move the problem to a different regime and sprag
clutches are useless above some speed because the system
then acts like a direct coupled unit.

Jim Baker
580.788.2779
Elmore City, OK


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Eugene Zimmerman



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 392

PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 3:13 pm    Post subject: Vamoose' Ex-Reduction Drive Reply with quote

Jim,
In my judgement the best system to deal with the torsional vibration
harmonics problem is to use a fluid coupler such as an automatic
transmission torque converter. The only problem is a HUGH weight
penalty.
On Oct 2, 2006, at 4:42 PM, Jim Baker wrote:

Quote:


> The guys at Valley swear by smoothness of
> their drive with wood props and promise that they will have a long
> term fix
> for composite props. They have tried rubber dampers, a modified
> drive like
> they have on their V twin, and a sprag clutch without a
> satisfactory fix.

They're unlikely, except perhaps through luck, to develop a
solution without a thourough survey of vibrational characteristics
of the system as a whole. Not cheap, not easy without extensive
instrumented/strain guaged props and not a few accellerometers.
Dampeners move the problem to a different regime and sprag
clutches are useless above some speed because the system
then acts like a direct coupled unit.

Jim Baker
580.788.2779
Elmore City, OK



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biglar



Joined: 14 Jan 2006
Posts: 457

PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 5:23 pm    Post subject: Vamoose' Ex-Reduction Drive Reply with quote

Thanks all for your thoughts and comments. The drive was made by Aero Kinetics and was one of only a few built to that configuration - I found out much later. Later ones were made with a cushioning assembly in the hub, but after my 1st breakage the mfr informed me that the upgrade wouldn't fit in my housing, but that the heavier input shaft should hold the strain. I guess it did. I have no idea if the company is still in business, and not interested in finding out. One day I'll probably make a web page detailing what all I found in that thing this summer. Pretty bad. Several smaller parts broke, and some machine work was incorrect.

There's quite a bit on it, and on the engine, in the "Engine and ReDrive" section of my website. Click on the link in my signature below.

The thought about the off road transfer cases has bugged me, too, because of the strain a small block could put on them in low gear. Those guys beat 'em up, too. I'm inclined to think it was a freak breakage, but not so inclined as to want to take another chance with it. Three times is enuf. The idea about snapping or cracking the whip to break it probably has a lot going for it. I dunno, but that thing sure did blow up.

I've had several good conversations with a successful cog belt drive builder, and it sounds good, but it would be very high (huge prop to tail boom space) and quite heavy. He's real interested and still noodling on it. SPG - my 1st choice - doesn't have VW adapters available, and isn't interested. Marcotte would be far and away the best, but far too heavy (45 lb) and a real iffy company. A couple others are interesting, so we'll see. For now, Vamoose goes back onto the back burner........again.   Lar.

Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
Vamoose

I mentioned a problem with Vamoose' redrive a bit ago, and have been asked for more info, so I guess I should share it with all. I'm not really crazy about this, but.........
[url=http://www.gogittum.com][/url]


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David Lucas



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 79
Location: Europe. based Amsterdam NL

PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2006 4:41 am    Post subject: Re: Vamoose' Ex-Reduction Drive Reply with quote

Quote:
One night Dan put a strobe light on the spinning IVO prop
on the little Suzuki. The prop blades looked like snake dancers.
Would never have imagined they would wiggle the way they did with the
engine run up.


Can remember a forum at Oshkosh a few years back discussing the 'pro's and con's' of in-line water cooled engines V's boxer format (horizontaly opposed) air cooled engines and apparently the boxer format cylinders under strobe lighting dance around quite a bit as well, whereas the in-line format was more rigid.

So maybe it's not just the prop 'wiggling' but the prop and engine both moving to some degree.

David.

Do not archive.


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Richard Swiderski



Joined: 30 May 2006
Posts: 5
Location: Ocala FL

PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2006 6:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Vamoose' Ex-Reduction Drive Reply with quote

Hello Big Lar.

For a while I thought you might beat me into the air, but now I have hope again!!

A few thoughts: 1) I have the SPG & it is a bullet proof unit with a BMW rubber donut, rated for 150hp. It would be a great match for you if only a VW adapter was offered. the north america dealer told me a guy in CA made a VW adapter & it was just a flat plate. He could probably get you the guys name. The rotax e-box might be the best way as it incorporates a starter & that might save you a lot of weight, but they won't sell you one unless you provice a serial # of your rotax engine.
2) About wiggles: All inline 3 cyl (2 or 4 stroke) rotate around the axis of the crank. Nothing will stop it but a counter rotating shaft. All 4 cyl inlines jump up & down & only a counter rotating shaft stops that. the flat opposed 4 is inherantly cancelled & is the smoothest configuraton. The wiggles from the inline 3 & 4's are obviously sufficiently delt with in thousands of instances or they wouldn't be seen in aviation. Everything is a compromise!

3) Please don't give up!!!! You are a hero to many of us.

Progress Report: After coming up with a 42% cg I had to drop back & start afreh. I moved the engine 12" forward which caused me to weld up a new oilpan & oil pickup. That's done. Now the engine sat too high so I cut out the engine mount & backbone which left a bigggg hole to drop the engine (3cyl, Suzuki, 100hp, turbo, intercooled, distributorless ignition, port injected, 107 lbs torque at 3600 rpm) into my SlingShot. I bought a tig welder & wish I had done so years ago. It is so easy & does such a beautiful job & no sparks to fly! After just messing with the oil pan, I am confident to start on the kolbs structure. that's not done yet. I keep changing the design & am going in circles. Its hard to keep it simple, light & strong--- Kolb is a genius at that! I will prevail.

Looking forward to another visit when you pass this way. -richard swiderski


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biglar



Joined: 14 Jan 2006
Posts: 457

PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 4:11 pm    Post subject: Vamoose' Ex-Reduction Drive Reply with quote

Thanks, Richard. If you could put me in contact with him, it'd be a great
favor. The drive looked good to me, too, but when I emailed about it, he
just emailed back, "sorry, no." Not a whole gang of interest there.

It sounds like you've been jumping thru hoops and going to the wars with
yours, too. Hang in there........sounds like you've got it in hand.

I had planned to come to Florida again this year, but wanted so badly to try
the Bella Coola, B.C. area again - hoping for better weather - that I just
hadta give it a go. Am I ever glad. I got my good weather and it turned
into one of the most spectacular vacations of my career. I also had an
adventure with a "green eyed monster" in a cave that's kinda funny in
retrospect. Literally, and scared the bejeezus out of me at the time. See
the Riske Creek page. I haven't built webpages yet, but have published
short stories on the Nikon Talk Forum that you and others may enjoy. Here's
the links to them - dial ups shouldn't have a problem............... Be
sure to click on the pictures to open them full size.

Riske Creek -
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1007&message=19477815

Chilko Lake -
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1007&message=19378437

Bella Coola -
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1007&message=19413502

FlightSeeing -
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1007&message=19441435

Telegraph Cove -
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1007&message=19515418

Humpbacks -
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1007&message=19530814

The "FlightSeeing" tour is what inspired me to get back after Vamoose
seriously, and I really wanted to trailer the fool thing back up there next
year to fly myself around. What a spectacular country. I'm not sure yet if
I'll return there next year with or without a plane, but the call is strong.
Then again, the call to do more fishing, visiting and sightseeing in Florida
and Lousy-ana is pretty strong, too. We'll see.
Lar. Do not Archive.

Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
Vamoose
www.gogittum.com

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Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk IIIC
"Vamoose"
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Denny Rowe



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 89
Location: Leechburg, PA

PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 5:57 am    Post subject: Vamoose' Ex-Reduction Drive Reply with quote

Larry,
I would advise you to stick with a redrive and company who has several units
mounted on the same type of engines as yours, not one who may or may not
want to develop one for a VW.
Also if I recall correctly, you have a pretty high compression version of
the VW which will increase the torsional problems quite a bit.
I would think V belts are called for here to allow slip and flex.

Denny Rowe
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 06, 2006 3:48 pm    Post subject: Vamoose' Ex-Reduction Drive Reply with quote

What about a Hirth redrive - they use them on Subaru's and a few others if I recall right. Rotax is getting real finicky who and what there boxes are being used on. You would probably would have to get a used reduction drive or a new one being sold by a private party.

One other thing, sounds like the prop made a rather abrupt stop, is there any potential of crank damage (twist what ever) as a result?
jerb


At 08:58 AM 10/2/2006, you wrote:
[quote]Larry, This is truly what the word bummer was invented to describe. Have you thought of adapting a Rotax gearbox to your engine? Might take a bit of machine work, but you'd have a proven drive with only the adaptation to de-bug. Just a thought.

Rick

On 10/1/06, Larry Bourne <biglar(at)gogittum.com (biglar(at)gogittum.com)> wrote:
I mentioned a problem with Vamoose' redrive a bit ago, and have been asked for more info, so I guess I should share it with all. I'm not really crazy about this, but.........

I started the engine without the prop on a few weeks ago, and it ran great. NO OIL LEAKS ! ! ! I thought I was home free, and was daydreaming about actually flying the thing, and wanted to get it in the air by Nov. 15 - the 10th anniversary of receiving the kit from TOK. I was really going for it - working on it every day after work.

So, I bolted the prop back on, safety wired it, and lit 'er up. The engine started to fire, then backfired or kicked back - or both - and there was a loud bang and a jolt and the engine stopped. Hitting the starter didn't even wiggle the prop, so I shut everything off and tried hand propping it. Wouldn't move, so I tore that s.o.b. redrive off - again - and tore it apart - again. Here's a picture of what I found. That chain literally exploded. I think that's more than a great plenty. I've stubbornly worked thru several issues with that thing, and that's enuf. I don't want to fly in front of it, so it goes in the trash.

From here ?? I dunno yet. I'm researching a couple of other redrives, but it's too early to say yet. I'll keep ya posted. Lar.

Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
Vamoose
www.gogittum.com




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