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Jaybannist(at)cs.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 4:19 pm Post subject: "Stretched" aluminum |
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Hey folks, I just completed the fitting of the XL canopy inside flashing. I did the "stretching" on the top flange called for in the photo guide to make the panel curve to fit. It fits, but it looks like "hammered hell" !!. Has anyone else had this result and, if so, what did you do to improve the appearance? I haven't drilled for the top angle, so I am thinking about just adding a cut-to-fit piece of .025 to the top of the inside flashing. Any suggestions?
Jay in Dallas, working on XL canopy
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larry(at)macsmachine.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 4:49 pm Post subject: "Stretched" aluminum |
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Jay,
When you hammer a flashing that curves, you place the hammer on the
inside of the sheet and the side that will be seen should be on a smooth
piece of steel.
Then all the marks will be on the inside and the surface showing will
mirror the surface of the steel block. See links of pieces. Template
ink curve is a gage on the table.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/canopy/full/flashinghammered.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/canopy/full/canopycurvegap.gif
This also applies to the piece you form to join the fuselage skin to the
wing.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/canopy/full/cnpyrailcover.gif
I'd do it over again. Doesn't take that much time to get it right.
Otherwise, you might just beat on it from the correct side and see if
you can get rid of the marks.
Worst case, sand prime and fill the imperfections, but it would take
less time to redo it than make excuses for why you added a "fudge cover".
Respectfully,
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Jaybannist(at)cs.com wrote:
Quote: | Hey folks, I just completed the fitting of the XL canopy inside
flashing. I did the "stretching" on the top flange called for in the
photo guide to make the panel curve to fit. It fits, but it looks
like "hammered hell" !!. Has anyone else had this result and, if so,
what did you do to improve the appearance? I haven't drilled for the
top angle, so I am thinking about just adding a cut-to-fit piece of
.025 to the top of the inside flashing. Any suggestions?
Jay in Dallas, working on XL canopy
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jeffrey_davidson(at)earth Guest
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Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 5:07 pm Post subject: "Stretched" aluminum |
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Jay,
I had the same effect on the inside canopy frame trim. I just painted it while I had the pieces separated and moved on! A shrinker/stretcher tool might have left a better looking result despite the marks it leaves.
Jeff Davidson
Hey folks, I just completed the fitting of the XL canopy inside flashing. I did the "stretching" on the top flange called for in the photo guide to make the panel curve to fit. It fits, but it looks like "hammered hell" !!. Has anyone else had this result and, if so, what did you do to improve the appearance? I haven't drilled for the top angle, so I am thinking about just adding a cut-to-fit piece of .025 to the top of the inside flashing. Any suggestions?
Jay in Dallas, working on XL canopy
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Jaybannist(at)cs.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 5:13 pm Post subject: "Stretched" aluminum |
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Larry, Thanks for the advise. I'll probably start over and do it right this time.
I am surprised about your comment regarding "the piece to connect the fuselage skin to the wing." My kit has a rubber fairing strip. Has something changed? Or is this just a better way to do it?
Jay in Dallas
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nfivesl(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 4:36 am Post subject: "Stretched" aluminum |
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Jay - I used a shrinker and it came out pretty good. Larry M. always has great ideas and I'd use his idea of hammering on the back side if you don't have access to a shrinker. If you are building an XL you won't have the fuselage flashing.
The shrinker leaves little "teeth" marks but they easily sand out.
Keep up the good work,
Scott Laughlin
610XL/Corvair
See my engine running here:
http://www.cooknwithgas.com/Videos.html
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larry(at)macsmachine.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 5:38 am Post subject: "Stretched" aluminum |
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Jay,
I forgot you are doing an XL and my HDS has this kind of structural to
connect to a permanent center section.
Larry
do not archive
Jaybannist(at)cs.com wrote:
Quote: | Larry, Thanks for the advise. I'll probably start over and do it
right this time.
I am surprised about your comment regarding "the piece to connect the
fuselage skin to the wing." My kit has a rubber fairing strip. Has
something changed? Or is this just a better way to do it?
Jay in Dallas
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*
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rge177(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 2:26 pm Post subject: "Stretched" aluminum |
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I just finished my canopy and had the same problem. I
think I got a little carried away with the hammering
on the first piece of flashing. The second piece I
placed the bottom of the flange on an anvil, and
hammered (easily) the top side with a ball pin hammer,
then turned it over and with the flat side of the
hammer worked the indents out. It worked ok, but like
Jay said, still kind of looks like "hammered hell." I
painted mine flat black, and it looks a little better,
kind of hides some of the marks. I chose not to make
another, because I don't think it would look much
better than the first. I'll just live with it.
Ron
Ft Worth, TX
Jaybannist(at)cs.com wrote:
Quote: | Hey folks, I just completed the fitting of the XL
canopy inside
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Quote: | flashing. I did the "stretching" on the top flange
called for in the
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Quote: | photo guide to make the panel curve to fit. It
fits, but it looks
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Quote: | like "hammered hell" !!.
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agustafson(at)chartermi.n Guest
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Posted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 5:13 pm Post subject: "Stretched" aluminum |
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Hammer? Did you ever make a ring out of a nickel by tapping on it w/ a tea
spoon? Takes patience but you end up w/ a finely finished ring. Same w/
stretching aluminum! do not archive
Aaron
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Jaybannist(at)cs.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 5:32 pm Post subject: "Stretched" aluminum |
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Ron, Larry McFarland wisely suggested I start over, hammering only the bottom side of the top flange, and I was going to do that. Then I realized #1 that I had already drilled the inside flashings to the canopy frame. I don't know how I could manage to hit those holes with a new flashing; and #2 I studied the back side of the top flange and it was nearly as ugly as the top! I really had to pound those flanges to get the curve I needed. I have now coated the mangled flanges with JBWeld and sanded them down to an acceptible appearance. There really must be a better way!
Jay in Dallas
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davgray(at)sbcglobal.net Guest
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Posted: Thu Oct 12, 2006 3:00 am Post subject: "Stretched" aluminum |
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The local hardware sells Felt weather striping that is gray in color about 5/8 " wide that was perfect to run along the top flange of the inside cowl flashings. I no longer see the stretch marks.
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