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601 XL 15 gal. fuel tanks.
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notsew_evets(at)frontiern
Guest

Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 4:42 pm Post subject: 601 XL 15 gal. fuel tanks.

Speaking of fuel senders in your  tanks,,,,

 I m about to cut into my 601 XL tanks to install  the sending units.

 My plans show the hole in the end of the tank and  my CD shows the hole on the top just in front of the spar.

 What did you guys do ??

 Seems like on top would be best and not  leak....

 If its installed on the inboard end as per plans,  can the unit be removed thru the access hole if needed ?

  

 SW

   [quote][b]

Tim Juhl

Joined: 21 Mar 2006
Posts: 488
Location: "Thumb" of Michigan

Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 5:29 pm Post subject: Re: 601 XL 15 gal. fuel tanks.

I didn't use the ZAC supplied units.  I installed capacitance type probes from the outboard end of the tank.  If they fail I will most likely have to open up the leading edge.



The latest plans call for installing them in the end of the tank.  I believe there is a clearance problem with the head of the sender and the skin if you try to top mount them.  Hopefully someone else will chime in here.



Tim

_________________
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Almost done! It'll fly in spring!

Afterfxllc(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 5:52 pm Post subject: 601 XL 15 gal. fuel tanks.

The old style sender could be top mounted but the new style is mounted  on the side. If you have a older kit or older plans they call for 4 ribs before  the tank and the access hole is pretty small (I just made one so trust me it's  small) and I don't think with the four rib style you could get it out  without loosing some blood from your hands. The 3 rib wing (New style) gives you  a bigger access hole and the tank is right against the tank and the sender lines  up with the flanged hole in the rib so it would be fairly easy to remove the  sender.

  

 Hope this helps

 Jeff

  

  In a message dated 11/27/2007 8:30:57 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  juhl(at)avci.net writes:

  	  Quote: 	
		  -->    Zenith-List message posted by: "Tim Juhl" <juhl(at)avci.net>



I    didn't use the ZAC supplied units.  I installed capacitance type probes    from the outboard end of the tank.  If they fail I will most likely have    to open up the leading edge.



The latest plans call for installing them    in the end of the tank.  I believe there is a clearance problem with the    head of the sender and the skin if you try to top mount them.  Hopefully    someone else will chime in    here.



Tim



--------

______________

CFII

Champ L16A    flying

Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A

Working on wings





Read    this topic online    here:



http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148971#148971

	




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  [quote][b]

notsew_evets(at)frontiern
Guest

Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 6:17 pm Post subject: 601 XL 15 gal. fuel tanks.

My QBK is # 55.  There are three nose ribs inboard of the tank.   I assume I need to install the senders on the end of the tank.   Its  no problem but I didnt want to screw up these "costly" tanks.  I ve been  watching your discussion of tank costs here and cant believe the $$$$$.

 Heck, about $6 of sheet aluminum and a tig welder would put us in  business...

  

 SW

 [quote]   ---

Afterfxllc(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 6:39 pm Post subject: 601 XL 15 gal. fuel tanks.

Meant to say the tank is right against the rib

  

  In a message dated 11/27/2007 8:53:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  Afterfxllc(at)aol.com writes:

  	  Quote: 	
		     The old style sender could be top mounted but the new style is    mounted on the side. If you have a older kit or older plans they call for 4    ribs before the tank and the access hole is pretty small (I just made one so    trust me it's small) and I don't think with the four rib style you could    get it out without loosing some blood from your hands. The 3 rib wing (New    style) gives you a bigger access hole and the tank is right against the tank and    the sender lines up with the flanged hole in the rib so it would be fairly    easy to remove the sender.

    

   Hope this helps

   Jeff

    

      In a message dated 11/27/2007 8:30:57 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,    juhl(at)avci.net writes:

    	  Quote: 	
		  -->      Zenith-List message posted by: "Tim Juhl" <juhl(at)avci.net>



I      didn't use the ZAC supplied units.  I installed capacitance type probes      from the outboard end of the tank.  If they fail I will most likely      have to open up the leading edge.



The latest plans call for      installing them in the end of the tank.  I believe there is a clearance      problem with the head of the sender and the skin if you try to top mount      them.  Hopefully someone else will chime in      here.



Tim



--------

______________

CFII

Champ L16A      flying

Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A

Working on      wings





Read this topic online      here:



http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148971#148971

	




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 	  Quote: 	
		  



://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution

f="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List

.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com



	
	




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  [quote][b]

psm(at)ATT.NET
Guest

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 3:47 pm Post subject: 601 XL 15 gal. fuel tanks.

Hi Steve,



 I have a fairly recent standard XL kit.  I installed the senders on the tank tops.  This seemed the easiest way to prevent most leaking (at least if the tank is not overfilled) and I just didn't worry about repairing a failed sender.  In truth, my flying always considered fuel gauges as nice ornaments, while fuel management was done with timing and planning.  Also my preflight inspection always includes a visual inspection of fuel levels in the tanks.  That means if the sender fails to properly indicate the correct level that is not much of a problem, but if it leaks all your fuel then it can be a huge problem.



 The senders I installed came in the kit and fit neatly under the skin.  I understand there are different ones that have a ground stud that interferes with the skin that need to be shortened.



 One note for all those folks who are considering welding their own aluminium tanks, I would suggest starting your TIG welding projects with something easier to accomplish.  Welding thin aluminum qualifies as the most difficult kind of welding there is and requires a great deal of skill and experience.



 Good luck,



 Paul

 XL fuselage



 

 At 04:40 PM 11/27/2007, you wrote:

 [quote]Speaking of fuel senders in your tanks,,,,

 I m about to cut into my 601 XL tanks to install the sending units.

 My plans show the hole in the end of the tank and my CD shows the hole on the top just in front of the spar.

 What did you guys do ??

 Seems like on top would be best and not leak....

 If its installed on the inboard end as per plans, can the unit be removed thru the access hole if needed ?

  

 SW

 

 [b]

ernieth(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 5:06 am Post subject: 601 XL 15 gal. fuel tanks.

Paul,



I like your reasoning on this. 



Thanks.



Do Not Archive.



On Nov 28, 2007 3:47 PM, Paul Mulwitz <psm(at)att.net (psm(at)att.net)> wrote:

[quote]   Hi Steve,



 I have a fairly recent standard XL kit.  I installed the senders on the tank tops.  This seemed the easiest way to prevent most leaking (at least if the tank is not overfilled) and I just didn't worry about repairing a failed sender.  In truth, my flying always considered fuel gauges as nice ornaments, while fuel management was done with timing and planning.  Also my preflight inspection always includes a visual inspection of fuel levels in the tanks.  That means if the sender fails to properly indicate the correct level that is not much of a problem, but if it leaks all your fuel then it can be a huge problem.



 The senders I installed came in the kit and fit neatly under the skin.  I understand there are different ones that have a ground stud that interferes with the skin that need to be shortened.



 One note for all those folks who are considering welding their own aluminium tanks, I would suggest starting your TIG welding projects with something easier to accomplish.  Welding thin aluminum qualifies as the most difficult kind of welding there is and requires a great deal of skill and experience.



 Good luck,



 Paul

 XL fuselage

 

 At 04:40 PM 11/27/2007, you wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		  Speaking of fuel senders in your tanks,,,,

 I m about to cut into my 601 XL tanks to install the sending units.

 My plans show the hole in the end of the tank and my CD shows the hole on the top just in front of the spar.

 What did you guys do ??

 Seems like on top would be best and not leak....

 If its installed on the inboard end as per plans, can the unit be removed thru the access hole if needed ?

  

 SW

 

 

	


[b]

Afterfxllc(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 7:03 am Post subject: 601 XL 15 gal. fuel tanks.

That's why they cost so much good point.

  

  In a message dated 11/29/2007 8:07:21 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  ernieth(at)gmail.com writes:

  	  Quote: 	
		  Welding    thin aluminum qualifies as the most difficult kind of welding there is and    requires a great deal of skill and  experience.

	




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ashontz

Joined: 27 Dec 2006
Posts: 723

Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 10:05 am Post subject: Re: 601 XL 15 gal. fuel tanks.

I hear ya. I just ordered some stuff and an instructional video to gas weld my tanks. At least if I'm going to spend even half or a thrid that kind of money I want some tools and skills out of it I can have forever.



[quote="notsew_evets(at)frontiern"]My QBK is # 55.  There are three nose ribs inboard of the tank.   I assume I need to install the senders on the end of the tank.   Its  no problem but I didnt want to screw up these "costly" tanks.  I ve been  watching your discussion of tank costs here and cant believe the $$$$$.

 Heck, about $6 of sheet aluminum and a tig welder would put us in  business...

  

 SW

  	  Quote: 	
		     ---

Afterfxllc(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 1:25 pm Post subject: 601 XL 15 gal. fuel tanks.

If you ordered that crap they show using a torch and some rods don't waste  your money. Trust me you will do nothing but make a lot of scrap metal.

  

  In a message dated 11/30/2007 1:07:32 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  ashontz(at)nbme.org writes:

  	  Quote: 	
		  -->    Zenith-List message posted by: "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org>



I    hear ya. I just ordered some stuff and an instructional video to gas weld my    tanks. At least if I'm going to spend even half or a thrid that kind of money    I want some tools and skills out of it I can have    forever.



[quote="notsew_evets(at)frontiern"]My QBK is # 55.  There    are three nose ribs inboard of the tank.   I assume I need to    install the senders on the end of the tank.   Its  no problem    but I didnt want to screw up these "costly" tanks.  I ve been     watching your discussion of tank costs here and cant believe the    $$$$$.

Heck, about $6 of sheet aluminum and a tig welder would put us    in  business...

  

SW



 	  Quote: 	
		         ---


	




--------

Andy Shontz

CH601XL -    Corvair

www.mykitlog.com/ashontz





Read this topic online    here:



http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149665#149665

	




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  [quote][b]

ashontz

Joined: 27 Dec 2006
Posts: 723

Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 1:38 pm Post subject: Re: 601 XL 15 gal. fuel tanks.

We'll see how it turns out. Apparently it's all about the flux, and you need special googles when working with certain fluxes for aluminum.



Apparently there's some way to weld it, and I suspect this is the best way. Everything I've heard about TIG welding is not great either, the splatter from that can burn a bunch of little pin holes all over the place.



Worse case I'm out $75 for an aluminum welding kit and $20 worth of sheet metal. At least I'll have tried. I suspect it will work though. And no, this is not brazing, it's welding, with either a MAPP torch or acetyleine.



Larry McFarland welded his own tanks with some patience, he's the man! I'll give it a try. That's what homebuilding is about, self-education. 3 years ago my neighbor had a smirk on his face when he saw I was building a plane. He doesn't smirk anymore. Meanwhile Mr. Smirky still spends his saturdays helping his wife grocery shop. I'll at least try welding them myself. Apparently it comes with a VHS video. Now I can't imagine them making a VHS video of a guy welding with said supplies, actually making a weld on video, and then me taking some scrap pieces and having total bum luck with it and not even be able to rudimentally join a bunch of scrap pieces that I can learn from before proceeding to the tank. That just doesn't make sense. Plus, the gas welding aluminum video was rated thumbs up by the EAA. Apparently this is a viable way of welding aluminum tanks.



[quote="Afterfxllc(at)aol.com"]If you ordered that crap they show using a torch and some rods don't waste  your money. Trust me you will do nothing but make a lot of scrap metal.

  

  In a message dated 11/30/2007 1:07:32 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  ashontz(at)nbme.org writes:

  	  Quote: 	
		  -->    Zenith-List message posted by: "ashontz" <ashontz>



I    hear ya. I just ordered some stuff and an instructional video to gas weld my    tanks. At least if I'm going to spend even half or a thrid that kind of money    I want some tools and skills out of it I can have    forever.



[quote="notsew_evets(at)frontiern"]My QBK is # 55.  There    are three nose ribs inboard of the tank.   I assume I need to    install the senders on the end of the tank.   Its  no problem    but I didnt want to screw up these "costly" tanks.  I ve been     watching your discussion of tank costs here and cant believe the    $$$$$.

Heck, about $6 of sheet aluminum and a tig welder would put us    in  business...

  

SW



 	  Quote: 	
		         ---



	




--------

Andy Shontz

CH601XL -    Corvair

www.mykitlog.com/ashontz





Read this topic online    here:



http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149665#149665

	




Check out AOL Money & Finance's list of the hottest products and top money wasters of 2007.

   	  Quote: 	
		  [b]

larry(at)macsmachine.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 1:41 pm Post subject: 601 XL 15 gal. fuel tanks.

Excellent decision Andy,

I welded my tanks and re-learned a great deal doing them. You might be 

interested in visiting my Journal section 2, March 29th thru May as I 

recorded the most important

solutions, issues and difficulties in producing these tanks.  Also have 

a picture pages on header tank and leading edge tanks and the methods 

used to get fixture and jigs to hold them while welding. (see links)  I 

found the overlap weld seam a much stronger joint than the barrel type 

edge weld and much less obstructive to place in a wing.



www.macsmachine.com/html/leadedgetanks.htm

www.macsmachine.com/html/headertank.htm



Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com



ashontz wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 I hear ya. I just ordered some stuff and an instructional video to gas weld my tanks. At least if I'm going to spend even half or a thrid that kind of money I want some tools and skills out of it I can have forever.



 [quote="notsew_evets(at)frontiern"]My QBK is # 55.  There are three nose ribs inboard of the tank.   I assume I need to install the senders on the end of the tank.   Its  no problem but I didnt want to screw up these "costly" tanks.  I ve been  watching your discussion of tank costs here and cant believe the $$$$$.

  Heck, about $6 of sheet aluminum and a tig welder would put us in  business...

   

  SW



   

 Andy Shontz

 CH601XL - Corvair

 www.mykitlog.com/ashontz

ifly4fun2(at)sbcglobal.ne
Guest

Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 5:13 pm Post subject: 601 XL 15 gal. fuel tanks.

Find a cheap stick welder and convert it to a tig to weld the aluminum and use the oxy/acetylene

for the steel.  Here's the link for the conversion kit if your interested: 



http://www.tigdepot.net/products_details2.php?productid=197



Art

--- Afterfxllc(at)aol.com wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   If you ordered that crap they show using a torch and some rods don't waste  

 your money. Trust me you will do nothing but make a lot of scrap metal.

  

  

 In a message dated 11/30/2007 1:07:32 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  

 ashontz(at)nbme.org writes:

 

 

 

 I  hear ya. I just ordered some stuff and an instructional video to gas weld 

 my  tanks. At least if I'm going to spend even half or a thrid that kind of 

 money  I want some tools and skills out of it I can have  forever.

 

 [quote="notsew_evets(at)frontiern"]My QBK is # 55.  There  are three nose 

 ribs inboard of the tank.   I assume I need to  install the senders on the end of 

 the tank.   Its  no problem  but I didnt want to screw up these "costly" 

 tanks.  I ve been   watching your discussion of tank costs here and cant believe 

 the  $$$$$.

 Heck, about $6 of sheet aluminum and a tig welder would put us  in  

 business...

 

 SW

 

 >     ---

 

 

 --------

 Andy Shontz

 CH601XL -  Corvair

 www.mykitlog.com/ashontz

 

 

 

 

 Read this topic online  here:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149665#149665

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest 

 products.

 (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)

Afterfxllc(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 6:34 pm Post subject: 601 XL 15 gal. fuel tanks.

I have the video and I bought the rods and trust me you don't want to use  this stuff on your fuel tanks. If it is the one where they show the guy filling  a hole in a soda can you are just asking to shorten your life span even if you  did somehow get the stuff to hold. I understand you are trying to save money but  what you are talking about is just plain dangerous If it the same stuff I  bought.

 Jeff

  In a message dated 11/30/2007 4:40:20 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  ashontz(at)nbme.org writes:

  	  Quote: 	
		  -->    Zenith-List message posted by: "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org>

We'll    see how it turns out. Apparently it's all about the flux, and you need special    googles when working with certain fluxes for aluminum.

Apparently    there's some way to weld it, and I suspect this is the best way. Everything    I've heard about TIG welding is not great either, the splatter from that can    burn a bunch of little pin holes all over the place.

Worse case I'm out    $75 for an aluminum welding kit and $20 worth of sheet metal. At least I'll    have tried. I suspect it will work though. And no, this is not brazing, it's    welding, with either a MAPP torch or acetyleine.

Larry McFarland welded    his own tanks with some patience, he's the man! I'll give it a try. That's    what homebuilding is about, self-education. 3 years ago my neighbor had a    smirk on his face when he saw I was building a plane. He doesn't smirk    anymore. Meanwhile Mr. Smirky still spends his saturdays helping his wife    grocery shop. I'll at least try welding them myself. Apparently it comes with    a VHS video. Now I can't imagine them making a VHS video of a guy welding with    said supplies, actually making a welding on video, and then me taking some    scrap pieces and having total bum luck with it and not even be able to    rudimentally join a bunch of scrap pieces that I can learn from before    proceeding to the tank. That just doesn't make    sense.

[quote="Afterfxllc(at)aol.com"]If you ordered that crap they    show using a torch and some rods don't waste  your money. Trust me you    will do nothing but make a lot of scrap metal.

  In a    message dated 11/30/2007 1:07:32 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,     ashontz(at)nbme.org writes:

 	  Quote: 	
		   -->    Zenith-List message    posted by: "ashontz" 

 I    hear ya. I just ordered    some stuff and an instructional video to gas weld my    tanks. At    least if I'm going to spend even half or a thrid that kind of money       I want some tools and skills out of it I can have       forever.

 [quote="notsew_evets(at)frontiern"]My QBK is #    55.  There    are three nose ribs inboard of the    tank.   I assume I need to    install the senders on the    end of the tank.   Its  no problem    but I didnt    want to screw up these "costly" tanks.  I ve been        watching your discussion of tank costs here and cant believe the       $$$$$.

 Heck, about $6 of sheet aluminum and a tig welder would put    us    in  business...

 SW

 >        ---

 > 

    > 

 --------

 Andy Shontz

 CH601XL    -    Corvair

 www.mykitlog.com/ashontz

 Read this topic online    here:

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149665#149665

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 	  Quote: 	
		   [b]

--------

Andy Shontz

CH601XL    - Corvair

www.mykitlog.com/ashontz

Read this topic    online    here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149683#149683

Check out AOL Money & Finance's list of the hottest products and top money wasters of 2007.

  [quote][b]

shilcom

Joined: 28 Sep 2007
Posts: 63

Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 4:28 am Post subject: 601 XL 15 gal. fuel tanks.

I guess for polarity  reversal when going from  4130 to aluminum you will have to rig up a way to switch the leads unless your  dc machine has straight and reverse polarity.  Bob U. 

 [quote]   ---

shilcom

Joined: 28 Sep 2007
Posts: 63

Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 4:28 am Post subject: 601 XL 15 gal. fuel tanks.

I do have the "stuff" in a few places, not generally on the  airplane.   One of the problems is "they" call it welding and it's  actually "soldering".  One of the differences is the metals being attached  don't reach melting temperatures like they do with welding.  If one  approaches the connection and the connection needs with the properties of  "soldering" in mind it CAN work well.  Clean joint with correct tools and  good "lapping type" fit up.  I think an improvement could also be made with  the "Proper" cleaning type flux, but I haven't seen one being  reccommended.  I used silver solder flux once and it seemed to work  good.  bob U. 

 [quote]   ---

psm(at)ATT.NET
Guest

Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 5:21 am Post subject: 601 XL 15 gal. fuel tanks.

Hi Andy,



I suggest you invest in an instructional book on welding along with 

your new equipment.  Nearly all welding suppliers have the one I 

bought several years ago - "Welder's Handbook" by Finch.  It will 

tell you which welding technique will work for which base metal and 

which technique will not.



Aluminum is extremely hard to weld for two simple reasons.  First, 

you can't see when it is getting hot because it melts before changing 

color - unlike steel which gets nice and red before melting.  Second, 

aluminum is an excellent conductor which means the heat you apply 

gets carried quickly away from the point you apply it.  That means 

you need a much higher power welding system for aluminum than for 

steel.  There is also the fact that aluminum oxidizes so quickly and 

the oxide is invisible but will ruin a weld.  I have heard it is 

possible to gas weld aluminum, but you will need a heavy duty 

oxy-acetylene rig.  I don't think a mapp gas setup will work.  Your 

chances of success will be a lot greater with TIG.



TIG welding should not spatter at all.  If it does, you are doing 

something very wrong.  For aluminum, you need an A/C power supply 

which is not found on the low end welders.  An entry level A/C TIG 

welding rig will cost around $1200 if you shop carefully.  The bigger 

professional class units with a high duty cycle and water cooling 

will be more like $5,000. Add to that another hundred or so for a 

bottle of shield gas and you are ready to start.  You also need 

appropriate filler metal rods - different ones for each type of base 

metal you want to weld.  Did I mention another hundred or two for a 

good self darkening helmet?  I strongly urge you to not skimp on that 

part since you will surely blind yourself with improper (or 

improperly used)  eye protection.



Of course, the price of the required equipment is more than the price 

of the tanks from ZAC.  Then you need to spend the required time to 

learn how to do the incredibly hard task of welding aluminum and then 

adjust it to very thin aluminum.



I will give you credit though.  You are facing a monumental task with 

little chance of success.



Good luck,



Paul

XL fuselage

At 01:38 PM 11/30/2007, you wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		  Apparently there's some way to weld it, and I suspect this is the 

best way. Everything I've heard about TIG welding is not great 

either, the splatter from that can burn a bunch of little pin holes 

all over the place.

paulrod36(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 6:48 pm Post subject: 601 XL 15 gal. fuel tanks.

<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]-->  "That crap they show using a torch and some rods" actually works, but you  have to have so clean of a surface, and such a delicate touch with the torch,  that it's an exercise in frustration. So far, the best result I ever got out of  it was an appreciation of zen, and patience, patience, patience, until I said to  hell with it, and used rivets and Pro-Seal. Then I killed the Grasshopper.

  

 Paul Rodriguez

 [quote]   ---

Ron Lendon

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 685
Location: Clinton Twp., MI

Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 10:07 pm Post subject: Re: 601 XL 15 gal. fuel tanks.

Not very encouraging words for the most part.  Larry Mac did the most study and had success.  



I took another route and bought the Miller Syncrowave 200 at the Oshkosh show price.  I plan on using it for other things also.  I choose this welder because it has the AC cycle and something called Balance and Pulse.  These two features make welding thin aluminum easy.  The construction of the tanks was just like the prints and the .032" 6061-T6 welded easy only requiring 28 - 30 amps for the edge welds.  More amperage was required for the fittings and ground strap.  



I did use 3.25 power reading glases to bring the work closer to me.  At that low of amperage, using a 1/16" 2% thoriated tungsten, Balance at 5.0 and Pulse set at 2.3, all I did was fuse the metal.  Filler rod was 1/16" 4043 and I used very little on the seams of the tank.



Pressure tested with bubble water and found no leaks.



It can be done.  I haven't welded aluminum in over 20 years but if you keep the metal clean, small stainless wire brush before striking an arc, and tack the tank together, every 4" or so, you can do it too.  Keep the oxidation off the work, join your welds and watch the puddle.



The small stainless brush should only be used for pre-cleaning always just before you strike the arc.  Aluminum oxidizes real quick so, clean, stitch weld, clean, stitch weld.



Follow this link to see the process:

http://mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rlendon&project=113&category=0&log=33993&row=99

I have welded aluminum using oxyacetylene, you see what I used here, with oxyacetylene, touch ups are really hard and the welding process goes real fast,  I can't keep up.  Setting the torch so it uses little oxygen from the tank and mostly from the atmosphere helps keep the oxidation down.  Flux both the joint and the rod.  You can get it from several sources.  Here is one I used to work with:

http://www.fournierenterprises.com/cart/home.php?cat=8 



Blue lenses help you see the work better.

_________________
Ron Lendon
WW Corvair with Roy's Garage 5th bearing
CH 601 XLB
N601LT - Flying
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Corvair Engine Prints:
https://sites.google.com/site/corvairenginedata/

ifly4fun2(at)sbcglobal.ne
Guest

Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 8:33 pm Post subject: 601 XL 15 gal. fuel tanks.

Bob,

My stick machine is AC only. Last I remember AC was one suitable method for welding alum.

Art

--- Bob Unternaehrer <shilocom(at)mcmsys.com> wrote:



[quote] I guess for polarity  reversal when going from 4130 to aluminum you will have to rig up a way to

 switch the leads unless your dc machine has straight and reverse polarity.  Bob U. 

   ---

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